Moore's Sewing, Vacuum and FanMoore's Sewing, Vacuum and Fan

Customer Service: 1-800-865-9664

Monthly Archives: April 2012

  • 1,600 inch quilt

    April 24, 2012

    What is 1,600” x 2 1/2” in-the-raw and winds up about 48” x 64” as a completed project? This is an easy quilt you can make in just a few hours.

    Dianna Frohn, a long time Moore’s customer from Huntington Beach, taught this class to a group of ladies, and they finished their quilt tops in less than 3 hours. (Dianna's finished quilt is shown above.)

    Supplies: 1 package of 'Bali Pops', a 'Jelly Roll' or 40 strips that are 2 ½” wide by approximately 40” length (width of fabric).

    Instructions: 1. With right-sides together, overlap the ends of two strips forming a corner. The corner of two strips should make a 90 degree angle. 2. Sew all 2 ½” strips together using a diagonal stitch line at each corner to create one 1,502” long strip.

    3. Trim each corner – you can trim all at one time or as you go. 4. Cut 18” from one end of the completed strips and add it to your fabric scrap box. 5. Find the ends of the 1,484” long strip. Place the ends right sides together and sew, using a 1/4" seam allowance, the length of the strip (742” of  sewing - do you have enough thread for this project?).

    6. When you reach the fold, cut at the fold. 7. Find the ends of the strip again and with right sides together, sew the length again. 8. When you reach the fold, cut apart. 9. The strip is now 371” long.

    10. Repeat this process 3 more times. 11. Press all the seams the same direction and trim sides even. You can add borders if you want your quilt to be larger.

    12. Quilt and bind as desired.

    Don't bother to measure the length of the strips at any time.  You get what you get – the finished length and width of the quilt top will vary somewhat as sewing technique and fabric selection create some variation.  We are working with fabric here, not building a bridge that must be long enough to span a canyon.

  • Key Fob Strap

    April 17, 2012

    This can be used as a short leash for your keys or as a strap for a wristlet bag. Use cotton webbing and scraps of fabric or ribbon. If you have an embroidery machine, you can personalize the strap to create a truly unique item.

    Supplies: 12” length of 1” wide cotton webbing 12” length of ribbon that is 1” or less in width 12” length of fusible web (i.e. Heat and Bond) cut 1/8 to 1/4 inches narrower than width of ribbon.   Stitching through fusible can cause your needle to gum up - if this happens, use a Q-tip dipped in alcohol  to wipe your needle off. 1 set of 1” key fob hardware Note: key fob hardware is available in several different sizes. Make sure you match the size of your webbing to the size of your hardware.

    Instructions:

    1. Iron fusible web paper-side up to back side of ribbon. 2. Peel paper off ribbon and iron ribbon to webbing 3. Stitch the ribbon along both edges to the webbing. 4. Trim ends.

    5. Seal ends with seam sealant i.e. Fray Check. 6. Fold ends of the webbing together and sew across the ends. 7. Crimp key fob hardware to webbing with pliers.  Follow any instructions specific to your hardware. Otherwise, try crimping lightly in the center first. 8. Then lightly crimp each side. Repeat the sequence, crimping more firmly one or more times until the hardware is securely attached without distorting the metal. 9. Add the key ring or hook.

    The picture above shows a 1 1/4" wide strap and hardware. As the width of the strap increases, the metal hardware tends to be thicker and more rigid. The small pliers or crimping tools that work fine on 3/4" and smaller strap hardware are not suitable for the larger hardware. The tool shown has 3" wide jaws and strong handles. The wide jaws provide the capability to crimp the hardware in a single operation.

    I discovered that making a key fob strap is much like eating a potato chip - you can't stop at just one. If you have an embroidery machine you can personalize a strap.

    These straps make great quick gifts, especially when you personalize them with a name.

  • Garden Apron

    April 10, 2012

    Springtime = Gardening

    April showers bring May flowers ---- and we all develop a 'green thumb' this time of the year. I found this cute gardening apron on the Baby Lock website from Totally Stitchin’.

    Supplies: small cuts of a variety of fabrics

    Cutting Directions: One apron panel 20” x 12” One pocket panel 32” x 7 ½” One waistband and ties strip 4” x 52” or longer 2 1/2” x minimum 44” of fabric to make binding along bottom and sides of apron panel 2 1/2” x minimum 32” of fabric to make binding for top edge of pocket panel The binding strips do not need to be cut on the bias

    Sewing Directions:

    1. Press all binding fabrics in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. 2. Sew a strip of pocket panel binding to the top edge (32”length) of the pocket panel, right side of binding trim to wrong side of pocket panel.

    3. Press the binding to the right side of the pocket panel.  Stitch the binding to the pocket panel with a top stitch or use a decorative stitch. 4. Divide the pocket panel into three equal sections. Press, or use a fabric marking pen to mark the two dividing/stitching lines.

    5. At each division, make a pleat that has a 1” depth on each side of the line. 6. Press pleats and pin.

    7. At each end of the pocket panel, fold at two inches from and one inch from the end to form a pleat that measures 1” deep. 8. After folding all the pleats, the pocket fabric should be the same width as the apron fabric. If necessary, increase or reduce pleats so the pleated pocket panel measures the same width as the apron panel (20”). If this is hard to read or say, practice the Peter Piper Picked a Peck of Pickled Peppers tongue twister.

    9. Pin the pocket panel onto the apron panel, matching the bottom and side edges. Baste the ends of the pocket panel to the sides of the apron panel. DO NOT baste the lower edge of the pocket panel at this time.

    10. Between the left and middle pockets, then between the middle and right pockets, pull the pocket pleats open and sew down the center of each pleat to attach it to the apron panel (refer to white dashed line in photo above).

    11. Refold the between-pocket pleats, and baste the bottom edge of the pocket panel to the apron panel.

    12. Sew binding to apron panel sides as follows:  with the binding trim on the wrong side of apron, sew binding trim to the side of the apron panel with 3/8" seam allowance.

    13. Press side binding to the front of the apron panel and top stitch or a use a decorative stitch.

    14. Cut the bottom binding 1 inch longer than the bottom edge of the apron panel (21”).  Fold both ends in ½ inch. Pin to the wrong side of the apron panel bottom edge, and stitch with 3/8" seam allowance. 15. Press bottom binding to the front of the apron panel and top stitch or use a decorative stitch. 16. For the waistband and ties of the apron, stitch enough strips of 4” wide fabric together to form a 52” or longer strip. 17. Find the mid-point of the length of the waistband and tie strip. Match the mid-point of the waistband and tie strip to the mid-point of the apron panel top. 18. Pin the right side of the waistband and tie strip to the back of the apron panel, and stitch with a 1/2” seam allowance.

    19. Magic has taken place..... the long strip has become a waistband (attached to the apron panel) and two "ties." Each tie must be sewn and turned inside-out, so pay close attention to these instructions. Fold each tie in half, with right sides together. Sew along the tie end and length with a 1/2” seam allowance. Do not sew across the apron panel.

    20. Stop sewing at the edge of the apron panel, DO NOT stitch into the apron panel.

    21. Trim tie corners.

    22. Turn the ties right side out and press. 23. The waistband section will fold naturally to the right side of the apron panel.  Fold the raw edge under and press.

    24. Top stitch the edge of the waistband to the apron panel.

    Find your garden supplies and most useful lightweight garden tools (no full-size shovels or picks) and load up your garden apron.  Don't forget to apply or put on sun protection (such as sunscreen and hat) before venturing out to your garden. Don't forget those gloves - dry, rough skin tends to catch on the surface of many fabrics and you don't want to have to wear some type of gloves while sewing to keep the moisturizing cream off the fabrics of your next sewing project(s).

  • Clutter-Control Fabric Box

    April 3, 2012

    Clutter seems to have a life of its own. If it belongs to someone else, it doesn’t seem so bad when it is contained in a pretty fabric box. Sometimes - only sometimes, mind you - even my clutter looks better in a pretty fabric box.

    To determine fabric sizes, start with the size you want the bottom of your box to be, the height of the sides, and 1/2 inch to provide for a 1/2” seam allowance.

    For a square bottom: Size to cut fabric = box bottom + 2 times height + 1” (1/2” x 2) seam allowance. Batting is cut 1” smaller than the length and width.

    For a rectangular box: Determine the length and width of the bottom. Use these values as box bottom length and then as box bottom width in the equation above.

    I decided on a 5” square box with 1 1/4” high sides. Using the above formula: 5 + 2 1/2” + 1 = 8 1/2” fabric square 8 1/2” - 1” = 7 1/2” batting square

    Supplies: 1 - 8 1/2” square of interior fabric 1 - 8 1/2” square of exterior fabric 1 - 7 1/2” square of fusible fleece or batting

    Instructions: 1. Cut fabric and batting to your determined size. 2. Center batting on interior fabric and fuse or use spray adhesive to join batting to wrong-side of interior fabric.

    3. Place exterior and interior fabrics right-sides together, lining up the edges. You might want to pin the fabric layers together. 4. Stitch with 1/2” seam allowance leaving a 4” opening in one side for turning. 5. Trim corners.

    6. Turn right side out. A point turner or chopstick helps to push the corners out. 7. Press the opening seam allowance to the inside. 8. Edge stitch all 4 edges.

    9. With interior fabric facing up, use chalk or water soluble pen to mark a line at the width of your sides (1 1/4” for me) in from all edges. 10. Stitching on these lines will make folding the sides up easier. However, you can just press the sides up.

    11. Fold fabric to form corners. 12. Using a ruler and chalk or water soluble pen, mark the corner stitching line where the folding line intersects the folded bottom. 13. Stitch from top edge to the corner of the line of stitching that forms the bottom. Repeat on all 4 corners. 14. Now, what will you put in your clutter control box(es)?

4 Item(s)