Moore's Sewing, Vacuum and FanMoore's Sewing, Vacuum and Fan

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Monthly Archives: May 2016

  • Tip! Saving Money On Machine Embroidery 3 - or - Why You Need Dream Weave!

    May 20, 2016

    We love machine embroidery and know you do too! Good tools and supplies are a good investment - which can actually save you money in the long run!

    Is Dream Weave part of your machine embroidery supply collection? If not it should be! And it's good for a lot more than embroidery which we'll tell you about!

    Dream Weave

    Order Dream Weave!

    It's often thought to be a stabilizer - it's not!  Dream Weave adds body to your delicate fabrics - like adding thread count! Lightweight fabrics, silks, satin, lame, batiste, lycra/knits, even quilting cottons - to enhance your fabric and help it stand up to the rigors of machine embroidery, or let you use a more dense design, without sheering, shredding or causing runs in your fabric.  Most important -- Dream Weave does this without changing the hand of your fabric!

    Why is that important?

    You chose your fabric for a special occasion, for the feel of it, the look - and you don't want to change that. Are there other fusible tricot type products out there? Yes! Do they cost less? Sometimes. So why invest in Dream Weave (notice we say invest)?  Because others can change the character of your fabric. The feel, the fluidity, the look. A soft fabric can become stiff or board like. Not what you wanted. If you just fuse the area behind the embroidery you now have a firm section and the rest of the fabric maintains its original character. Not what you wanted.

    You have a lot invested a lot in your machine, needles, threads, and more. Don't skimp by getting a product that can change your fabric or the item you're going to embroider and turn it into something you didn't want in the first place, possibly even rendering it unusable! That's not saving money - it's the opposite!

    So we have a list of more things you'll love Dream Weave for so you'll feel good about making the investment for beautiful embroidered items - and Moore!

    --  Use Dream Weave to iron on to the  back of embroidery to keep the back super soft! Even softer than the Fusible Mesh we love!  Floriani Fusible Mesh

    Get Fusible Mesh!

    It's perfect for infant wear and knits!

    Dream Weave 1

    Get Dream Weave! White or Black!

    --  It's great to fuse onto the shoulders of knit tops to keep them stable but allow some stretch to fit.  We cut strips from the leftovers to have on hand - so you're making use out of what may have been waste! Simply lay the strip over the stitching line, press it on, and serge or sew as planned!

    Stabilizing shoulers

    --  Got a rip or tear in something you love? Press the ripped or torn area nice and flat. Cut a piece of Dream Weave a little larger than the area that's torn - we usually go 1/4" - 1/2". (Another great use for small pieces that may have been discarded!).  Fuse it onto the back side of the item. Sometimes a second slightly bigger piece is in order, some like to do a darning or zigzag stitch over the tear on the front - but the Dream Weave will keep your fabric together - without changing its character or feel.

    --  Dream Weave is a wonderful sewing partner if you make jackets or skirts or clothing or use fabric you want to have a little more body but want a comfortable feel that's not too stiff - just fuse the yardage! It's perfect for boucle fabrics, and helps keep linen or silk dupioni or others that tend to wrinkle badly - less wrinkly!


    Upgrade my look with Dream Weave!

    --  Dream Weave is a perfect treatment for knit fabrics when you need buttonholes. Fuse it to the back of the buttonhole area (we still use a small piece of tearaway on bottom and water soluble topper when stitching) so the buttonhole maintains its shape.

    We bet there are more uses we haven't found yet. Have you? Please share them in the comments section and/or post to our Facebook page!

    Dream Weave comes in black or white, packages or bolts!  Dream Weave Ultra adds a little more support for even more dense embroidery designs.

    Dream Weave Ultra

    Get Dream Weave Ultra!

    Invest in making your products a success with Dream Weave and any stabilizers you purchase - come on in to any of Moore's locations for a free stabilizer consultation to help ensure you get the best possible results! And did you know - Floriani even has a stabilizer app for your phone?

    Floriani Stabilizer App

    So even when the stores are closed, you can shop online at, check our Blog Store for products you read bout here, or use the app to help make your shopping list!

    Now stop dreaming about perfect embroidery and make it happen!


  • Easy Serger Skirt 1

    May 3, 2016
    Easy Serger Skirt from pintuck texturized fabric!


    Sergers.  Knits.  Garments. Oh my!

    These are scary words for many of our sewing friends! Do any one - or more - of these intimidate you? You're not alone. Fear no more, this skirt is a great first project for your serger, for working with knits, for creating an easy to fit garment!  And it's SO versatile - there are great fun prints for casual wear, solids for a more conservative look or to go with many pieces as part of a travel wardrobe, can be long, short, in between, great for kids to adults and make good gifts!

    We had some fun with our fabric - confession - when we bought our fabric we thought it was a neat black denim knit look. We had no idea there was a floral print on the back!

    Look what you can find when you check BOTH sides of the fabric!


    So we decided to make it reversible - we'll tell you how!  But first we decided to texturize it.  We used a pintuck foot and 2.0 twin needle to create the meandering pintucks you see on the solid side (please visit us so we can get you the right foot and needles!) You can find inspiration anywhere you look - we knew we wanted some texture but weren't sure what ... gazing down at the carpet in a hotel conference room we saw meandering ribbon like lines like this - and we knew that's what we were looking for!  The floral print shows the wrong side of the tucks as a narrow thread line.  We'll show you some things you can do like this - and more - with pintuck feet in another post :)

    Serger Skirt 16

    Now if "serger" is a four letter word for you, the thought of threading it or changing tensions gets your blood pressure up - let us help! (Here are our numbers - call us maybe?!)  We'll get you into a FREE guide class!  And take a look at some of these Baby Lock models with automatic threading and NO tension!  If you don't have a serger but have wondered about what these mysterious, multi-thread machines can do, come on in to any of our locations and let us show you! You can whip out simple, quick, so-in-style fashions like this - and so much more - quickly and easily with professional finish!  They are NOT just for finishing edges!

    So let's get started -- we'll do the hardest part first and get it out of the way!

    To determine how much fabric you'll need -

    Measure desired length starting a couple inches below waist. You're the designer, there's no right or wrong length!

    Measure fullest part of your hip.

    Knit fabrics are typically 54" - 60" wide.  If you select a knit with cotton, rayon, wool - any shrinkable fiber - allow for shrinkage when buying  and make sure you do preshrink it!  Your "usable fabric" is the width after shrinkage, minus selvages. Unfortunately we have to guesstimate shrinkage before deciding how much to buy.

    We made this skirt slightly A-line (wider at bottom) to avoid possible cling (vs. a straight skirt which can sometimes emphasize hips if you're curvy - but this is a design choice and all up to you!).  It sits just below waist.  We "flared out" to about 4" larger at bottom of front and back pieces, plus 1/2" for seam allowance (so w could trim off some fabric. You can make yours 1/4" if you like, about the width for a wide 3 thread overlock stitch).

    Baby Lock Evolution 3 Thread Overlock Wide Stitch


    If your usable fabric width is at least your hip measurement plus 9" (that's 4" + 1/2" seam allowance for the front and back pattern pieces) - purchase the length measured plus 1/2 yd.  Example: 54" fabric (usable width) ... Hip:  42" + 9" = 51" ...  Buy:  Desired length + 1/2 yd.

    If your hip + 9" is greater than your usable fabric width - purchase 2x the length plus 1/2 yd. Example: 54" fabric (usable width) ... Hip:  50" + 9" = 59" ... Buy:  2x desired length + 1/2 yd.

    The additional 1/2 yd. allows for the band and hem allowance.  If you have some leftover, make a headband or scarf or hairtie!  If you want a fuller skirt, add to the 9" measurement and calculate yardage from there.

    That's the math part, and the hardest part of this project for some. It's done! Now let's make that skirt!

    1)  If using one length, fold selvage edges toward center.  You'll create your front along one fold, back along the other.

    Fabric folded toward center (one side shown, you should fold the other side in as well)


    2)  If using two lengths, leave fabric folded as purchased - you'll create your front and back pieces in line along the fold.

    3)  Mark your skirt piece as shown - center is on fold.  (We've only shown one, front and back pieces look alike - we did the same along each fold for front and back.)  We used a Chaco Liner to mark - this soft chalk marking tool makes fine lines, and is easy to brush off - and comes in several colors! Colors available throughout our stores!

    Chaco Liners Refillable Chaco Liners come in colors to fit all your needs!


    We started with 1/4 of the hip measurement plus 1/2" seam allowance -- because your fabric is on fold and will be twice as wide when opened.  We decided to brush some away at top and redraw the line in an inch or so toward waist as the body narrows.  We marked the +4" flare at bottom and used our 24" quilting ruler (get it here!) and Chaco Liner to draw the straight line you see.  We went edge to edge on the fabric, so just one line to cut. The original markings we didn't want were easy to brush off!

    Front or back piece, center on fold. We pulled mark in a little at top, flared out 4" from hip measurement at bottom.


    4)  Set up serger for a wide 3 thread overlock stitch.  Stitch length 3.  Cutting width will depend on thickness of your fabric.  Test on some scraps until you like what you see!

    5) (Optional) - pin baste or stitch baste seams  to check fit. Pull in at waist if desired.

    6)  Place right sides of fabric together and - serge seams!  You can trim off a bit of fabric if using 1/2" seam or serge right along the edge (if you're using the 1/4"/ 3 thread wide width seam allowance).  To guide your fabric check the markings or grooves on your presser foot - they will align with needle positions - you can just guide your sewing line toward the needle mark.  We've shown the mark corresponding to the left needle with our tweezers -

    Serger Skirt 4

    Press as stitched, then press to one side.

    To make ours reversible, we edge stitched the seam down on the floral side. We used a foot with a center blade and opening the width of our machine's feed dogs - an Edge Joining Foot or Stitch in the Ditch foot (but not the straight stitch version!  We'll help you select the right one - come see us!).  We moved the needle to left a couple positions to stay on the edge - here's how each side looks --

    Serged seam edge stitched down on "wrong"/floral side.

    Stitched down seam on "right"/solid side.


    7)  Cut the band.  It's just a rectangle!

    How to measure how big around?  Wrap the fabric around you crosswise - the (typical) direction of most stretch - to see what's comfortable wherever you want it to sit - and add an inch (1/2" seam allowance).  Make sure you stretch it a bit (as you would elastic), it should be a little smaller than your skirt top - it uses the stretch - negative ease - to fit close (and keep your skirt in place!).

    We wanted our finished band about 4" (plus seam allowance) so we cut it 9" by the length we got measuring above.

    8)  Place right sides of fabric together along 9" side and serge. Press seam to one side.

    Serger Skirt 8


    9)  Fold band in half, wrong sides together.

    Serger Skirt 9

    10) Mark band and skirt in quarters as shown with pins. Skirt side seams are two marks, center back and front the other two.  For band start with seam and do same.

    Band and skirt pinmarked at quarters.


    11) Pin the quarter marks of band and skirt together.  Your band is smaller than your skirt - you will stretch as you serge - stretch the band between the quarter marks so it's stretched to match the skirt segment you're attaching it to --

    Band pinned to skirt at quarter marks.


    Streeeeeetch band to fit skirt while serging!


    Finish by serging about an inch over your initial stitching. You can lower the blade if desired for this last inch to prevent cutting previous stitching.

    12) Hem it!  You have some options here --

    Trendy ITY (Interlock Twist Yarn) knits don't ravel - you can leave them unhemmed if you like!

    You can hem with a coverstitch - a common ready to wear finish - Cover Stitch

    Many sergers have a coverstitch option - the Baby Lock Ovation or Evolution,  and Janome offers a great cover and chain stitch machine to supplement your serger, the Janome Coverpro 2000CPX!)

    Since you won't need the stretch in the hem, you could machine stitch the hem, or use a twin needle on a sewing machine for a coverstitch look.

    Create a wavy lettuce edge with the rolled hem on your serger  (particularly effective with sheers - how about a sheer overlay to your skirt?)  Lettuce Edge 1

    Here's our other confession - we didn't buy a long enough piece of fabric - that's why our skirt pieces go edge to edge!  Every mistake is an opportunity to find a new workaround! Since we wanted it reversible, we wouldn't want a hem shown on the floral side anyway. So we just switched to a narrow 3 thread overlock stitch and serged the bottom edge.  And you can do that too!

    13)  Wear it!  And show us! We'd love to see your versions - feel free to share with us on our Facebook page!

    We'll be giving you another easy serger skirt option soon, we'll use a pattern, and feature a foldover top.  Want to try on your own?  Here are a couple patterns you might like, easy to use -

    1616 1367

    And if you don't have a serger (yet!), you can sew these on your sewing machine.  Use a narrow zig zag - we often use .5 width and 3.0 length - so your stitch has stretch, or try some of those overlock style stitches.  But we know once you start serging - you'll never go back!

  • Tip! Discover the Wonders of Wonder Clips!

    May 3, 2016

    Pins will always be an important sewing essential... But we're having a Wonder-ful time with Clover Wonder Clips!

    Wonder Clips 10 Red

    10 Piece Starter Set

    These remarkable clips have taken the place of a lot of pinning.  They're great for fabrics or materials that are unpinnable - you just can't get a pin through the stuff - or those where you don't want to make pinholes or pins may hide. Think - plush fabrics, heavy fabrics, vinyls, leather, faux leather, fur.

    They hold tight enough to keep heavy layered sections together - like keeping your handles in place while sewing those great bags - yet won't distort finer fabrics.  How about embroidery? Ever try stitching something - a t-shirt, onesie, sweatshirt - something that wanted to keep rolling into the hooped area (and sometimes does... and gets embroidered down when it's not supposed to...)?  These are great for clipping that excess fabric outside the hoop so it can't creep onto the stitching area!

    Are you a quilter? You NEED these!!! They're SO helpful with quilt binding - look at how perfectly they keep your binding in place ready to stitch!  Curved bindings? No problem!!

    Wonder Clips 1 Wonder Clips 5

    Get some now!

    (Better get a 50 pack - life's too short and quilts too big for just 10 Wonder Clips!)

    The curved top lets you fit a lot of fabric into the clip, but they're flat on one side so they'll move easily over your sewing surface!

    Wonder Clips 2

    And - their clear, flat underside has seam allowance markings to measure your fold, keep things in line, and more!

    Wonder Clips 6

    Shop now!

    You can't miss them - they come in red -

    Wonder Clips 50 Red Wonder Clips 10 Red

    or beautiful rainbow colors -

    Wonder Clips Asstd Wonder Clips 50 Asstd Wonder Clips 10 Asstd

    I want them all!

    So when you clip instead of pin you can SEE the clip and you're not going to accidentally run a pin through your machine (we know this happens... especially when you're working with something like fur, minkee, boucle, layers of fleece - where the pins can easily hide!). You're not going to snag your hand on a pin either (ouch!). And you can get over that fear of stepping on pins!



    Keep some in your closet - they're great for clipping skinny straps to hangers so your clothes don't slip off! (Yes, we did make the dress - keep watching the blog for some easy projects to help you with knits and garments!)

    Wonder Clips 7

    And for those times when you're stitching away and just can't be bothered to step away from the machine to brush the hair out of your eyes - just Wonder Clip it and keep going!

    Wonder Clips 3

    Come on into any of our locations and try them out in person! Once you get them in your hands you won't let go!

    And don't be fooled - we've heard reports of super cheap imitations online that look like they're Wonder Clips - but on receipt turn out to be knockoffs. Close attention to detail can reveal some flaws, roughly finished edges, springs that aren't as tight or long lasting as real Clover Wonder Clips. You invest a lot of time and love in your sewing, invest in good tools you can depend on as well! As always, we're here to help you with all your sewing needs!

    Download to PDF now!


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