Do you need a gift for a wedding shower this weekend, or for your sister’s 50th wedding anniversary, or maybe for a friend’s birthday? Some of you may think that embroidering on toilet paper is a silly idea – and it is, but sometimes it is good to do something specifically because it is a silly idea.

At a recent Melanie Coakley “Start Your Own Embroidery Business” event, she talked about embroidering on a roll of toilet paper and wrapping the roll up to give as a gift at a party. A salesperson who attended the party thought T.P. embroidered with her name and phone number would make a wonderful calling card. Melanie got an order for 100 rolls at $20 each – I’m sure you can do the math…

Supplies:
4” x 4” hoop
One roll of 2-ply toilet paper – 3-ply for a really special recipient
Two pieces of cut-away stabilizer large enough to be clamped in your hoop
One piece of medium-weight water-soluble stabilizer large enough to be clamped in your hoop
Embroidery design of your choice or creation that is not too dense and will fit in a 4” x 4” hoop

Instructions:

1. Roll out the T.P. so it unrolls from the top.
2. Take the first three perfect squares and fold them under the next 3 squares.
3. Make sure the edges are lined up.
4. Center the middle doubled square of T.P. on one of the cut-away stabilizer pieces and put the water-soluble stabilizer on top. Gently hoop together with the sandwich centered in the hoop.

5. Hook the hoop to your machine. Place the roll of T.P. to the side or back of the machine. Create enough slack in the T.P. such that when the hoop moves the toilet paper will not tear.
6. Before stitching, slip the second piece of cut-away stabilizer under the hoop to provide extra stability.

7. When the embroidery design is finished, carefully remove the hoop from the machine.
8. Gently tear away the water-soluble stabilizer (you might want to do this before removing the sandwich from the hoop – do what works best for you). Trim the exposed edges of the cut-away stabilizer even with the long edges of the T.P. (this probably will be easier after removing the sandwich from the hoop).
9. Re-roll all the squares back onto the roll so the roll looks fresh and new. Wrap in some kind of transparent material so your handiwork can be enjoyed by all.
10. Of course, if you have problems with the design or stitching, you just tear off the reject squares and try again. I suggest the roll be at least half the original size when giving as a gift.

April showers bring May flowers. Fabric flowers can add a touch of color to a headband, can be used as a brooch on a jacket, can be attached to a ribbon to make a beautiful napkin ring, or just be scattered on a table.

Supplies:
fabric – approximately 3” x 45” strip
3” square of felt
Cutting Instructions:

1. Make a circle template approximately 2 1/2” in diameter. You might use a spool of thread to trace around. If you use the felt, this can be used as your cutting template as well as the flower backing.
2. Select fabric that looks good to you on both sides because both sides will show. Cut a strip ¼” wider than the diameter of your template.
3. A flower requires approximately 20 circles of fabric. One method to create multiple circles easily is to fold the fabric and cut multiple layers at one time. Another method is to mark and cut one layer at a time. Multiple layer cutting is described below.
4. Fold the fabric to create squares slightly larger than the template.
5. Use your circle template to cut around. You can trace and then cut, or just hold the template on top of the stack of fabric and cut.
6. The circles do not have to be perfect. Irregular edges add interest to the finished flower. You can trim edges later if desired.

Construction Instructions:

1. Pick up a fabric circle, wrong side towards your palm, and scrunch the fabric right sides together with you thumb and fingers.
2. Your scrunched circle of fabric should be similar to the above picture.
3. Place the scrunched up fabric on top of the felt circle so the raw edges extend about ¼” past the edge of the felt circle (raw edges facing outward).
4. Sew the tip in place.

5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 (scrunch – sew), making sure each new scrunched circle is snug to the previous one.  Add more circles until you complete the bottom layer.
6. This sample outside layer has 9 circles.
7. The second layer of scrunched circles goes on top the first, but place the tips about ¼” closer to the center of the felt backing piece. Repeat steps 1 to 4 until each successive layer is filled.
8. As each layer gets smaller, the flower will start to look rounded.
9. The diameter of your flower will determine how many layers you will need. The sample has 3 layers.
10. If you can still see your felt in the center and there is not enough room to sew another full layer, there is solution. Reduce the size of 3 fabric circles by ¼” all the way around. Do the fabric circle scrunch, but sew each scrunched circle by hand to the center of the felt.

Above is a back view of the completed sample.

Add a pin back fastener to make a lovely flower brooch.

A flower can be sewn or glued on an item for permanent attachment.

Now, the decisions you have to make are how many flowers do you make, what colors, and how are they going to be used.

How about serving Mom her favorite cookies on her own very special plate. These plates are fast and easy to create and add a special touch to any occasion.

Supplies:
Glass plate – I found mine at the 99¢ store
Mod Podge or other product for doing decoupage on glass
Embroidery design that will fit your glass plate
Background fabric to complement your embroidery design

Instructions:
1. Determine which measurements will create the largest cut fabric piece – width plus 2 inches and length plus 2 inches of area of plate to be covered or width and length of fabric needed for the hoop you will use to embroider the design. Cut background fabric.
2. The embroidery design shown above was created with the lettering spiral feature of Embroidery Works – a new software program by Designers Gallery.
3. Stitch out design.

4. Place your plate on something that will hold it up off the surface of your workspace. I found it was easier to work with this way. I also found it was necessary to put down some paper to cover my workspace.
5. On the back of the plate, apply a coat of Mod Podge to the area you want your fabric to cover. This might be just the flat bottom of the plate or the entire backside.
6. Place your embroidered fabric upside down on the Mod Podge.
7. Apply Mod Podge over the back side of your fabric, pressing out any bubbles.
8. Let everything dry…. This can take a while.
9. When the fabric is finally dry, remove the extra fabric by cutting around the plate as close as you can. I used an X-acto blade. Apply a little more Mod Podge around the cut edge of the fabric to reduce fraying.

Do not put the plate in a dishwasher or a sink of water, but you can wash the top side. If the fabric should come loose, just add another coat of Mod Podge.

Dianna Frohn, a long time Moore’s customer from Huntington Beach, taught this class to a group of ladies, and they finished their quilt tops in less than 3 hours. (Dianna’s finished quilt is shown above.)

Supplies:
1 package of ‘Bali Pops’, a ‘Jelly Roll’ or 40 strips that are 2 ½” wide by approximately 40” length (width of fabric).

Instructions:

1. With right-sides together, overlap the ends of two strips forming a corner. The corner of two strips should make a 90 degree angle.
2. Sew all 2 ½” strips together using a diagonal stitch line at each corner to create one 1,502” long strip.

3. Trim each corner – you can trim all at one time or as you go.
4. Cut 18” from one end of the completed strips and add it to your fabric scrap box.
5. Find the ends of the 1,484” long strip. Place the ends right sides together and sew, using a 1/4″ seam allowance, the length of the strip (742” of  sewing – do you have enough thread for this project?).

6. When you reach the fold, cut at the fold.
7. Find the ends of the strip again and with right sides together, sew the length again.
8. When you reach the fold, cut apart.
9. The strip is now 371” long.

10. Repeat this process 3 more times.
11. Press all the seams the same direction and trim sides even. You can add borders if you want your quilt to be larger.

12. Quilt and bind as desired.

Don’t bother to measure the length of the strips at any time.  You get what you get – the finished length and width of the quilt top will vary somewhat as sewing technique and fabric selection create some variation.  We are working with fabric here, not building a bridge that must be long enough to span a canyon.

Supplies:
12” length of 1” wide cotton webbing
12” length of ribbon that is 1” or less in width
12” length of fusible web (i.e. Heat and Bond) cut 1/8 to 1/4 inches narrower than width of ribbon.   Stitching through fusible can cause your needle to gum up – if this happens, use a Q-tip dipped in alcohol  to wipe your needle off.
1 set of 1” key fob hardware
Note: key fob hardware is available in several different sizes. Make sure you match the size of your webbing to the size of your hardware.

Instructions:

1. Iron fusible web paper-side up to back side of ribbon.
2. Peel paper off ribbon and iron ribbon to webbing
3. Stitch the ribbon along both edges to the webbing.
4. Trim ends.

5. Seal ends with seam sealant i.e. Fray Check.
6. Fold ends of the webbing together and sew across the ends.
7. Crimp key fob hardware to webbing with pliers.  Follow any instructions specific to your hardware. Otherwise, try crimping lightly in the center first.
8. Then lightly crimp each side. Repeat the sequence, crimping more firmly one or more times until the hardware is securely attached without distorting the metal.
9. Add the key ring or hook.

The picture above shows a 1 1/4″ wide strap and hardware. As the width of the strap increases, the metal hardware tends to be thicker and more rigid. The small pliers or crimping tools that work fine on 3/4″ and smaller strap hardware are not suitable for the larger hardware. The tool shown has 3″ wide jaws and strong handles. The wide jaws provide the capability to crimp the hardware in a single operation.

I discovered that making a key fob strap is much like eating a potato chip – you can’t stop at just one. If you have an embroidery machine you can personalize a strap.

These straps make great quick gifts, especially when you personalize them with a name.

Springtime = Gardening

April showers bring May flowers —- and we all develop a ‘green thumb’ this time of the year. I found this cute gardening apron on the Baby Lock website from Totally Stitchin’.

Supplies:
small cuts of a variety of fabrics

Cutting Directions:
One apron panel 20” x 12”
One pocket panel 32” x 7 ½”
One waistband and ties strip 4” x 52” or longer
2 1/2” x minimum 44” of fabric to make binding along bottom and sides of apron panel
2 1/2” x minimum 32” of fabric to make binding for top edge of pocket panel
The binding strips do not need to be cut on the bias

Sewing Directions:

1. Press all binding fabrics in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.
2. Sew a strip of pocket panel binding to the top edge (32”length) of the pocket panel, right side of binding trim to wrong side of pocket panel.

3. Press the binding to the right side of the pocket panel.  Stitch the binding to the pocket panel with a top stitch or use a decorative stitch.
4. Divide the pocket panel into three equal sections. Press, or use a fabric marking pen to mark the two dividing/stitching lines.

5. At each division, make a pleat that has a 1” depth on each side of the line.
6. Press pleats and pin.

7. At each end of the pocket panel, fold at two inches from and one inch from the end to form a pleat that measures 1” deep.
8. After folding all the pleats, the pocket fabric should be the same width as the apron fabric. If necessary, increase or reduce pleats so the pleated pocket panel measures the same width as the apron panel (20”). If this is hard to read or say, practice the Peter Piper Picked a Peck of Pickled Peppers tongue twister.

9. Pin the pocket panel onto the apron panel, matching the bottom and side edges. Baste the ends of the pocket panel to the sides of the apron panel. DO NOT baste the lower edge of the pocket panel at this time.

10. Between the left and middle pockets, then between the middle and right pockets, pull the pocket pleats open and sew down the center of each pleat to attach it to the apron panel (refer to white dashed line in photo above).

11. Refold the between-pocket pleats, and baste the bottom edge of the pocket panel to the apron panel.

12. Sew binding to apron panel sides as follows:  with the binding trim on the wrong side of apron, sew binding trim to the side of the apron panel with 3/8″ seam allowance.

13. Press side binding to the front of the apron panel and top stitch or a use a decorative stitch.

14. Cut the bottom binding 1 inch longer than the bottom edge of the apron panel (21”).  Fold both ends in ½ inch. Pin to the wrong side of the apron panel bottom edge, and stitch with 3/8″ seam allowance.
15. Press bottom binding to the front of the apron panel and top stitch or use a decorative stitch.
16. For the waistband and ties of the apron, stitch enough strips of 4” wide fabric together to form a 52” or longer strip.
17. Find the mid-point of the length of the waistband and tie strip. Match the mid-point of the waistband and tie strip to the mid-point of the apron panel top.
18. Pin the right side of the waistband and tie strip to the back of the apron panel, and stitch with a 1/2” seam allowance.

19. Magic has taken place….. the long strip has become a waistband (attached to the apron panel) and two “ties.” Each tie must be sewn and turned inside-out, so pay close attention to these instructions. Fold each tie in half, with right sides together. Sew along the tie end and length with a 1/2” seam allowance. Do not sew across the apron panel.

20. Stop sewing at the edge of the apron panel, DO NOT stitch into the apron panel.

21. Trim tie corners.

22. Turn the ties right side out and press.
23. The waistband section will fold naturally to the right side of the apron panel.  Fold the raw edge under and press.

24. Top stitch the edge of the waistband to the apron panel.

Find your garden supplies and most useful lightweight garden tools (no full-size shovels or picks) and load up your garden apron.  Don’t forget to apply or put on sun protection (such as sunscreen and hat) before venturing out to your garden. Don’t forget those gloves – dry, rough skin tends to catch on the surface of many fabrics and you don’t want to have to wear some type of gloves while sewing to keep the moisturizing cream off the fabrics of your next sewing project(s).

Clutter seems to have a life of its own. If it belongs to someone else, it doesn’t seem so bad when it is contained in a pretty fabric box. Sometimes – only sometimes, mind you – even my clutter looks better in a pretty fabric box.

To determine fabric sizes, start with the size you want the bottom of your box to be, the height of the sides, and 1/2 inch to provide for a 1/2” seam allowance.

For a square bottom: Size to cut fabric = box bottom + 2 times height + 1” (1/2” x 2) seam allowance.
Batting is cut 1” smaller than the length and width.

For a rectangular box: Determine the length and width of the bottom. Use these values as box bottom length and then as box bottom width in the equation above.

I decided on a 5” square box with 1 1/4” high sides. Using the above formula:
5 + 2 1/2” + 1 = 8 1/2” fabric square
8 1/2” – 1” = 7 1/2” batting square

Supplies:
1 – 8 1/2” square of interior fabric
1 – 8 1/2” square of exterior fabric
1 – 7 1/2” square of fusible fleece or batting

Instructions:
1. Cut fabric and batting to your determined size.
2. Center batting on interior fabric and fuse or use spray adhesive to join batting to wrong-side of interior fabric.

3. Place exterior and interior fabrics right-sides together, lining up the edges. You might want to pin the fabric layers together.
4. Stitch with 1/2” seam allowance leaving a 4” opening in one side for turning.
5. Trim corners.

6. Turn right side out. A point turner or chopstick helps to push the corners out.
7. Press the opening seam allowance to the inside.
8. Edge stitch all 4 edges.

9. With interior fabric facing up, use chalk or water soluble pen to mark a line at the width of your sides (1 1/4” for me) in from all edges.
10. Stitching on these lines will make folding the sides up easier. However, you can just press the sides up.

11. Fold fabric to form corners.
12. Using a ruler and chalk or water soluble pen, mark the corner stitching line where the folding line intersects the folded bottom.
13. Stitch from top edge to the corner of the line of stitching that forms the bottom. Repeat on all 4 corners.
14. Now, what will you put in your clutter control box(es)?

Spring is an interesting time of the year. For some strange reason, some of us feel the need to clean and to organize our sewing rooms. This is when I find supplies for projects not yet started and projects started but not yet completed (and a few completed projects that got mixed in with everything else).

I was organizing my embroidery design CDs when I saw my “All-Occasion Banners by PJ’s In The Hoop” design CD. Its time had arrived. So without hesitation, I pulled some fabric from my collection and decided to stitch out a Spring banner. Okay -  I was bored with cleaning, and any excuse would work to do something different.

The designs you want to put in your banner will determine the amount/size of the following supplies:

Fabric (may need more than one design and/or color)
Stiffener, such as Timtex
Water soluble stabilizer
Tear away stabilizer
Embroidery thread
Spray adhesive (double-sided tape)

A detailed set of instructions is included in the step-by-step tutorial that is on the CD.  The highlights of my construction steps are included here.

I decided to include a carrot, a bunny and the word SPRING in my banner. The design pack has 40 graphic designs, the numbers 0 to 9 and letters A to Z. You can create a banner for every occasion.

Each banner piece has an outline stitch, a satin stitch, and stitching for two eyelets.  Some pieces have additional adornment stitches.

Instructions (for each banner piece):
1. Hoop tear away stabilizer. Most of the designs will fit in a 4 x 4 hoop.
2. The thread color should be one that contrasts with the stabilizer for this step. Sew the outline stitch.

3. Remove the hoop from the machine and the stabilizer from the hoop. Cut out the stitched shape along the stitching line. This is your pattern for cutting your Timtex (stiffener).

4. Pin the pattern to the stiffener and trace along the outer edge of the shape.
5. Remove the pin and pattern. Cut the stiffener along the traced line.
6. Hoop water soluble stabilizer.
7. Change the bobbin and top thread to a color that will match your fabric.
8. Attach the hoop to the machine and sew the outline stitch again.
9. Remove the hoop from the machine. Apply spray adhesive to the back side of the stitched area.

10. With right-side of the back fabric facing you, center over the stitched area and stick to stabilizer.

11. Return the hoop to the machine and sew the outline stitch again.
12. Remove the hoop from the machine and spray the stitched area on the front side.
13. Stick the Timtex cutout precisely within the stitched area. (I found my stiffener would not stick to the spray adhesive, so I used double-sided tape.)
14. Spray the  adhesive on the stiffener. (I used double-sided tape again, making sure it was in an area that the needle would be stitching.
15. With right-side of the front fabric facing you, center over the stitched area and stick to the Timtex.
16. Return the hoop to the machine and sew the outline stitch again.
17. Remove the hoop from the machine and trim both the front and back fabrics closely along the outer edge of the stitching.

18. Attach your hoop to the machine and sew the remaining stitching steps, changing both bobbin and top thread as required.

19. Remove the banner piece from the hoop and trim the excess stabilizer.
20. Cut the eyelets with an eyelet cutter. If you cut any stitches, just dab some seam sealant on the eyelet thread.

21. Dissolve any remaining stabilizer with water on a small paintbrush or a sponge.

Note: If you use a larger hoop, you can stitch out more than one design in the hoop.

You are now ready to attach your banner shapes together using ribbon, string, beads or bows.

Supplies:
Sewing machine with walking foot
Sharp blunt end scissors (blades sharp, point blunt – not the other way around)
Ruler
Chalk or water-soluble pen
kk2000 temporary spray adhesive
Olfa Chenille Cutter
3 fabric panels
1 piece of fabric for backing cut 2 inches wider and longer than the panels

Note: These instructions are for making a large panel quilt with different backing fabric and edge binding as pictured above.  The instructional pictures are for an applique on a tote and show 4 panels all facing up. Regardless of the back fabric, only the top 3 layers are cut and frayed to produce the chenille effect.

Steps:

1. Using chalk or a water-soluble pen, mark the top layer with a bias line.
2. Stack the panels so the designs are directly on top of each other.
3. Place a pin on a distinctive part of the design.
4. Put the pin through the same spot on all the layers.
5. Stack the 3 pinned panels face up and centered on the backing fabric that is wrong side up.
6. Use kk2000 temporary spray adhesive to keep the backing and panels from shifting while sewing.

7. With a straight stitch set for length of 2.0, stitch along the drawn bias line.
8. Stitch parallel lines at equal distance apart all the way out to the edges of the fabric. The lines can be from ¼” to ½” apart. The closer the lines, the fluffier the finished product will look. I stitch 3/8” apart. The easiest way to keep your rows straight is to use your presser foot as a guide and to adjust the needle position to get the spacing you want.

9. After all the lines have been stitched, cut between the stitched channels (on one end only) – DO NOT CUT THE BACKING LAYER. Using a pair of blunt-end scissors, clip about one inch of each channel. Finish cutting each of the channels along its entire length using the Olfa Chenille Cutter.
10. After the stitching and cutting is done, add binding to your quilt. See how to apply binding in the earlier Valentine’s Day Heart Potholder blog.
11. You can use a stiff brush to fluff the chenille, or you can fluff the chenille by washing and drying it, or do both.

NOTE: If you currently have or suspect that you have plumbing problems associated with your washing machine and/or house drain, I suggest that you take this project to a laundromat and wash it there. You might want to go somewhat incognito.

You may want to make your organizer longer or shorter, depending on what you have in your purse. To determine the length I wanted my organizer to be, I laid out what I have in my purse on the grid lines of my cutting mat, leaving an inch space between them. My full-table size cutting mat not being long enough, I pared down the items to those which are most universally required.

Supplies:
2 – pieces of fabric 8” wide by the length you determine. I cut mine 8” x 26”.
2 – pieces of stiff interfacing the same size as fabric. The interfacing should be stiff enough that when ironed onto the back of the fabric you can stand the fabric up.

Directions:
1. Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric pieces.
2. With right-sides facing, sew the pieces together using a ½” seam allowance. Be sure to leave an opening large enough for your hand to pull the fabric through.
3. Clip the corners close to the stitching. I like to taper the seam allowance near the corner. How much you taper depends on how bulky your fabric is. I find about an inch from the corner works well for most fabric .
4. Turn the fabric right side out through the opening.
5. If necessary, push out the corners with a narrow tool, i.e. a knitting needle or point turner.
6. Iron the fabric flat.

7. Edge stitch around the entire rectangle.
8. Fold up the bottom edge about 3”.

9. Stitch the sides closed by stitching close to the edge. I stitched on top the line of stitching I just did.
10. Measure each of the items that will be in the organizer and add an inch to the width.

11. Place a pin where you think you want the stitching line to be and do a test fit before marking the sewing line.

12. Sew pockets.

The stiff interfacing helps keep the pocket open when you take something out so you can easily get it back in.

When you change purses next time, you can take out the entire organizer and place it in the other purse.