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  • Snowflakes for Sandy Hook Elementary

    December 27, 2012

    Words cannot describe the grief and sadness that we felt when we heard the news of the Sandy Hook school shooting.

    The PTA will welcome the students to their new school with a winter wonderland, and are asking people to send snowflakes to decorate the school.

    Please make a few snowflakes, if you don't have a design Steve Wilson, owner of Anita Goodesign has made one available for you to download.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/snowflake/Hdsfl13.dst

    http://www.moores-sew.com/snowflake/Hdsfl13.pes

    http://www.moores-sew.com/snowflake/Hdsfl13.vp3

    Please drop them off at your local Moore's Sewing Center on or before Saturday, January 5th. They need to arrive at the PTA office by January 12, 2013. Thank you for your support.

    Instructions for Freestanding Lace: 1. Hoop one piece of water soluble stabilizer. (Use two pieces if your design is larger than 3 inches square.) 2. Match your bobbin thread to your top thread. 3. Embroider the design,

    4. Trim the excess stabilizer away. 5. Rinse with warm water.

    6. Blot dry with a paper towel and let dry.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Cascading Scarf

    December 27, 2012

    Foofaraw - rhymes with crosscut saw and one definition is frills and flashy finery. When created with a flimsy fabric with flashy threads running through it, this is a fine foofaraw scarf. When created with a flimsy, not-so-flashy fabric, this might be a fashion statement scarf. Determined by the fabric, the construction ranges from extra-simple to simple. We tackle extra-simple in this issue.

    The construction of the scarf in the picture above was demonstrated at the December Sew Fun Club meetings. As promised (and we always try to keep our promises), here are the instructions for making an extra-simple scarf.

    Supplies: – ½ yard of fabric that looks good on both sides – 1 ½ yards of 1/4” wide clear elastic (enough for a 100 inch long scarf)

    Instructions: 1. Cut two 7 inch wide by width of fabric strips 2. Sew the two pieces right-sides together across one short end (unless you want a really long scarf, trim off  any excess of about 45 inches from the center seam) 3. Set up your serger for a 3 thread rolled edge with a 3.0 width and 1.5R length. 4. To add a hint of shine, use embroidery thread in the upper and lower loopers. 5. Serge the long raw edges. 6. If the short ends have a selvage edge then doing a rolled hem is optional. The foofaraw fabric of the sample came with a fringed selvage – just a lucky happenstance. 7. Apply seam sealant to corners and let dry before trimming off excess thread tails. 8. Along the long direction of the scarf, press mark the center of fabric by folding long edges together and pressing. 9. Cut elastic half the length of the fabric plus 4”. 10. Measure in 2” from each end of the elastic and mark with a pen. 11. At the marks on the elastic, pin the elastic to the wrong-side at each end of the scarf on the center (fold) line. The elastic should extend 1 1/2” beyond the fabric. The extra length will give you something to hold while stretching the elastic and stitching close to the ends of the scarf. 12. Use a scrap of fabric and a piece of elastic to make a test sample(s) to get the feel of working with the fabric/elastic combination. You can start with the sewing machine set for a 2.0mm wide 2.0mm length zig-zag stitch. Follow steps 13 to 14 with your practice piece(s). Remember that you must stretch the elastic consistently to about twice its relaxed length as you sew it down. This requires you to stretch the elastic with one hand behind the needle and the other hand in front of the needle while letting the feed dogs move the fabric under the needle. When you have made a satisfactory sample, proceed to step 13 to do it for real. 13. Start and end stitching with a back tack 5/8” from each end of the fabric. 14. Stretch elastic, centering over the center (fold) mark, and sew down the middle of the elastic. 15. Clip off the excess elastic.

    16. You're finished.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Hand Warmers for Cold Mornings

    December 18, 2012

    Baby it's cold outside, but at least your hands can be warm. On cold mornings, you can warm your hands with these pocket-size rice-filled bags. Just 20 seconds in the microwave and the warmers are ready to go. If you made any flannel projects or gifts recently, you probably have scraps big enough to make some warmers.

    Supplies: ¼ yard each of two coordinating flannel fabrics (wash, dry and iron before cutting) 1 cup uncooked rice

    Cutting Instructions:

    4 – 5 1/2” x 5 1/2” squares from main flannel fabric 2 – 5 1/2” x 8” rectangles from coordinating flannel

    Instructions:

    1. Fold the 5 1/2” x 8” rectangles in half, wrong-side together to form 5 1/2” x 4” pockets. Press.

    2. Place one pocket piece on the right-side of one of the 5 1/2” squares. Line up raw edges. The pocket folded edge will be 1 1/2” down from the main fabric edge. 3. Place a second 5 1/2” square right-side facing down. 4. Pin the three layers together.

    5. Stitch with a 1/2” seam allowance around the sides leaving a 2” wide opening. Hint: leave the opening along the edge of the square that is only 2 fabric layers thick. 6. Clip the corners.

    7. Turn right-side out. Push the corners out using a point turner or chopstick. 8. Press.

    9. Add ½ cup of rice. A funnel helps. 10. Pin the opening closed to keep rice grains out of your sewing machine. 11. Edge stitch across the opening. Photo above is a close up of the edge stitching 12. Repeat the process to make the second hand warmer.

    Heating Instructions: Place both hand warmers in a microwave on high heat for 20 seconds. Shake the hand warmers to distribute the warmed rice. For first time use in a particular microwave, carefully check the temperature of the pocket before placing all fingers inside.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Fleece Scarf with Embroidery

    December 11, 2012

    Fleece is an interesting and unusual, though ubiquitous fabric. It's lightweight and stretchy. It's great for sewing and embroidery projects because it comes in a variety of colors and weights. And it does not fray – which can't be said for most fabrics....

    Supplies: Needle – sharp, universal or embroidery - size 75/11 Stabilizer – water soluble for backing Stabilizer – topper to prevent stitches from sinking down into the fleece Fleece – choose a high-quality fleece for your embroidery project. High-quality fleece will snap back into shape after being stretched Embroidery design – Use designs that aren't too dense. The designs used in this project are from Winter Wonderland by Anita Goodesign

    Instructions: 1. Use a bobbin with the same color thread that you'll be using on top. 2. Hoop the backing stabilizer. 3. Stitch basting line to use for placement. 4. Place fleece and topper over placement line and sew basting stitch again. 5. The topper will prevent stitches from sinking into fleece. 6. Embroider the design. 7. Remove from hoop.

    8. Gently tear the excess topper off and cut away the water-soluble stabilizer being careful not to cut the fleece or any stitching. Dissolve all of the remaining stabilizer by soaking the scarf in water.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Candy Cane Holders

    December 4, 2012

    Differentiate your candy cane from the rest with its own special holder. Supplies: Dakota Design CD - Appliquè Candy Cane Holders (20 designs included with detailed instructions) Water soluble stabilizer Fabric for the appliquès - Maximum size needed for the front and back of each holder will be 2 pieces 4” x 3 1/2” Tape, such as blue painter's tape Fray Check Candy Cane Instructions:

    1. Hoop water soluble stabilizer.

    2. Sew the tack down stitch to hold the appliquè fabric in place. Trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 3. Embroider the design through the last outline step. 4. On the back of the stabilizer, tape a piece of appliquè fabric that extends at least ¼ inch past the  the outline stitches. 5. Stitch the tack down color change to hold the appliquè fabric in place. 6. Remove tape and trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 7. Change bobbin thread to match top thread. 8. Embroider the rest of the design. 9. Stabilize the buttonholes with Fray Check, let dry. 10. Remove from hoop and cut excess water soluble stabilizer away from design. 11. Cut buttonholes open.

    12. Using a damp sponge, remove excess water-soluble stabilizer. 13. Add candy cane.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog

    Candy Cane Holders

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/finished-project-475x356.gif

    Differentiate your candy cane from the rest with its own special holder. Supplies: Dakota Design CD - Appliqué Candy Cane Holders (20 designs included with detailed instructions) Water soluble stabilizer Fabric for the appliquès - Maximum size needed for the front and back of each holder will be 2 pieces 4” x 3 1/2” Tape, such as blue painter’s tape Fray Check Candy Cane Instructions:

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/hoop-stabilizer-300x225.gif 1. Hoop water soluble stabilizer.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/cut-away-top-fabric-300x225.gif 2. Sew the tack down stitch to hold the appliquè fabric in place. Trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 3. Embroider the design through the last outline step.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/add-fabric-to-back-300x225.gif 4. On the back of the stabilizer, tape a piece of appliqué fabric that extends at least ¼ inch past the outline stitches.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/back-side-300x225.gif 5. Stitch the tack down color change to hold the appliqué fabric in place.http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/trim-excess-fabric-on-back-300x225.gif 6. Remove tape and trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 7. Change bobbin thread to match top thread.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/final-stitching-300x225.gif 8. Embroider the rest of the design.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fray-check-300x225.gif 9. Stabilize the buttonholes with Fray Check, let dry.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/cut-away-stabilizer-300x225.gif 10. Remove from hoop and cut excess water soluble stabilizer away from design.http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/cut-buttonholes-300x225.gif 11. Cut buttonholes open.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/clean-edges-300x225.gif 12. Using a damp sponge, remove excess water-soluble stabilizer. 13. Add candy cane.

  • Christmas Tree Shaped Napkin

    November 27, 2012

    Decorate your holiday table with appropriately shaped napkins. Most people will recognize the shape, but depending on your fabric selections, some may wonder “what were you thinking when you picked those fabrics?”

    Materials: – ½ yard of 2 different fabrics - will make 2 napkins – template stock – poster board, cardboard, or heavy paper

    Instructions: 1. Create a circular template by cutting a 17” diameter circle from the template material. 2. Place right-sides of the two fabrics together and pin. 3. Trace around the circle template with a fine-line fabric marker. Be sure to leave at least an inch between the two circles. You don't have to make continuous lines. Dashed lines are fine. You will be able to make 2 circles on a ½ yard sandwich of 45 inch wide fabric. The black 'worms' are weights that hold the pattern down on the fabric stack. You don't need to have pattern weight 'worms', but they are useful if you have some. 4. Do NOT cut on the line you just drew. Separate the circle sandwiches by cutting between them.

    5. Sew on the traced outline around each circle. Leave a 2” opening for turning. 6. Trim the seam allowance 1/8” to 1/4” of stitching. Pinking shears work great for this. 7. Turn right-side out and press. 8. Edge stitch around the napkin, this will close the opening. 9. Fold the napkin roughly in half with a little of the contrasting fabric showing at the open end.

    10. Locate a point on the straight fold that is 5 inches in from the circular edge. Measure along the curve about 3-1/4 inches and fold so the contrasting fabric stripe shows.

    Make a reverse fold, aligning the new fold to the 'loose' edge.

    Continue the alternating folds to make 5 pie-shaped wedges. Adjust the folds if needed to form the the tree shape.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Glass SLIPPERS - not GLASS Slippers like you might wear or have worn

    November 20, 2012

    Glass SLIPPERS – not GLASS Slippers like you might wear or have worn

    Having a party? Do you prefer that your guests wouldn't put their wineglasses on your tables without a coaster? If you answered yes, then this fast project is for you.

    Requirements:

    - Batting: one 4 inch square of cotton/poly blend - Fabric: five 4 inch squares, 3 of one print, 2 of a second print - Note: If your wineglasses have large bases, you will want to use larger squares.

    Instructions:

    1. Fold two squares of each print in half, wrong-sides together. Press. 2. Place the remaining fabric square right-side up on the batting square, and align the raw edges.

    3. As the fabric pieces in the photos are difficult to identify, the graphic above shows the sequential placement of the folded fabric triangles. For the sample with two triangles of each fabric, the odd numbered pieces are from one fabric and the even numbered pieces are from the other fabric. Lay the first three pieces down in order, rotating the pieces as illustrated. Slide the fourth piece under the exposed half of piece number one as indicated by the arrow.

    4. Align all the raw edges and pin as needed. 5. Sew a ¼: seam allowance around the square. 6. Trim off the corners.

    7. Turn the slipper right side out.

    8. Slip in the base of your wineglass.

    Now that you know how fast and easy these are to make, why not make up some for your use and some more for gifts.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Embroidered Candle

    November 13, 2012

    A simple process enables you to coordinate your candles to every season, holiday, or special event.

    Supplies: - candle - tulle or organza fabric that closely matches the color of your candle - kk2000 temporary spray adhesive - permanent multipurpose spray adhesive - Floriani water soluble stabilizer - embroidery design that fits on your candle. Choose a light to medium weight design without a lot of small detail. High stitch count designs don't work well on tulle or organza. If your design has running stitches you will get better results with organza than with tulle.

    Stitching the design: 1. Cut your tulle or organza and two pieces of stabilizer to fit your embroidery hoop. 2. To help prevent the fabric from slipping, spray the stabilizer with a small amount of kk2000 temporary adhesive. 3. Make a fabric sandwich - stabilizer, tulle or organza, stabilizer. 4. Hoop the three layers together. 5. Attach hoop to the machine and embroider the design. 6. When the design is finished, remove from the hoop and trim away excess stabilizer. Be careful to avoid cutting any of the design stitches. A close trimming is not necessary. Do not trim the tulle or organza. 7. Soak the design in warm water to remove the remainder of the stabilizer. 8. Let dry.

    9. Trim excess fabric around design. A dense design may be trimmed closely, whereas a loose design may need the supporting tulle or organza to stabilize parts of the design. 10. Spray the back of the design with permanent adhesive. 11. Align the design on the candle. To hold the design in place while the adhesive dries, wrap a strip of plastic wrap around the candle.

    If the design doesn't stick to your candle, you can use some small pins to hold it in place.

    Crystals can add a special touch. Applying crystals to the embroidery design before attaching the design to the candle is probably the best approach. If you check the pictures closely, you may notice that the crystals were added after the design was attached to the candle.  This second-thought application worked on the dense design, but probably would not work on a loose design.

    When the candle begins to burn down, peel the embroidery off and reapply to a new candle.

    click here for a printable version of this blog
  • Casserole Carrier

    November 6, 2012

    With the holidays approaching, it is time to make a handy item for yourself and maybe for others as a gift to facilitate transporting a contribution to a family or friend get together. This is a carrier you can make to simplify transporting your plate of cookies or pie or a hot dish. The specified size will hold a 9 inch pie plate or a 1 ½ to 2 quart casserole dish. You can adjust the size to fit your needs.

    Fabric: ½ yard of fabric ½ yard of medium weight fusible interfacing. Instead of using interfacing, you can use a cotton batting to help keep your dish warm.

    Cut: 2 – 17” squares from fabric 1 – 17” square from interfacing 1 – 5 ½: x 17” strip of fabric for handle 2 – 2 1/2” x 5 1/2” strips of fabric for loops

    Instructions:

    The body -

    1. Fuse interfacing to the wrong-side of one 17” square of fabric. 2. Place both 17” squares of fabric right-sides together and pin as needed. 3. Sew together with a 1/4” seam allowance leaving a 4 inch opening along one edge for turning.

    4. You will get a sharper corner if, at each corner, you don't stitch right into the corner. Instead, stop sewing before getting right into the corner, turn the fabric 45 degrees and take two stitches to get to the ¼ “ seam line, then turn the fabric another 45 degrees to line up with the fabric edge and resume sewing parallel to the fabric edge. 5. Turn the big squares right-side out. Use a point turner to push the corners out. 6. Top stitch at 1/8” from the edge. This will close the opening and make your fabric lay nicer. Handles and loops -

    1. Press a 1/4” hem along all four sides of the 2 ½” x 5 1/2” strips of fabric. 2. Fold in half lengthwise and press. 3. Repeat on the 5 1/2” x 17” strip of fabric. 4. Top stitch at 1/8” from folded edges on all three strips. 5. Sew a short strip onto a corner so it forms a loop as shown in picture above. 6. Sew the other short strip to opposite corner. 7. Sew the long strip to the other two corners. 8. Place a pie plate or casserole in the center of the fabric square and slip the two short loops over the long handle strap to close the square around the dish.

    click here for a printable version of this blog
  • Mitered Corner Placemat

    October 30, 2012

    Fall, that time of the year when we start spending more time in our sewing studios working on projects for the holidays. This week our project is how to do a form of mitered corner binding.

    Supplies: - A 12” x 18” placemat center - The one shown was made by using the stitch and flip technique we did in the December 13, 2011 blog for the mug rug. - Backing fabric 16” x 22”, or 4” wider and longer than a center size of your choosing.

    Instructions: 1. Create the center for the placemat. This could be just a beautiful piece of fabric. Set aside. 2. Cut backing fabric 4” wider and longer than the center. 3. With the backing fabric wrong-side up, fold and press a side hem 1". 4. Fold and press the next side 1". The second hem will overlap the first hem at the corner. Repeat this process on remaining sides so every side has been folded once. 5. Fold and press each of the side hems again, 1”. The hems will overlap at each corner. 6. Unfold all the hems to reveal the pressed lines. I added the pencil lines to make it easier to see the folds. 7. Starting at any fabric corner, fold the fabric right-sides together to create a 45 degree point.

    8. Place one edge of a wide ruler along the fold and the ruler corner at the point where the inner-most pressed folds touch the just created fold. Use a fabric marking pen to mark a stitching line from the intersection of the pressed folds along your 45 degree fold line to the pressed fold line closest to fabric edge.

    9. The point where the pressed lines intersect is where you will begin to sew the corner hem. 10. Stitch along the marked line, back tacking at each end. 11. Trim the point of the triangle off, leaving a 1/4” of fabric past the stitch line. 12. Press the seam open. Repeat for all corners. 13. Using the previously pressed guidelines, fold the hems back into place. Push out all the corner points with a point turner. 14. Pin the folded edges, if necessary. 15. Press.

    16. Insert the placemat center on the backing, tucking raw edges under the folded hems. 17. Using a straight stitch, sew along the inside folds to secure the inside to the binding. 18. This is a finished top corner with edge stitching. 19. Finished backside of placemat.click here for a printable version of this blog

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