Moore's Sewing, Vacuum and FanMoore's Sewing, Vacuum and Fan

Customer Service: 1-800-865-9664

  • Fleece Scarf with Embroidery

    December 11, 2012

    Fleece is an interesting and unusual, though ubiquitous fabric. It's lightweight and stretchy. It's great for sewing and embroidery projects because it comes in a variety of colors and weights. And it does not fray – which can't be said for most fabrics....

    Supplies: Needle – sharp, universal or embroidery - size 75/11 Stabilizer – water soluble for backing Stabilizer – topper to prevent stitches from sinking down into the fleece Fleece – choose a high-quality fleece for your embroidery project. High-quality fleece will snap back into shape after being stretched Embroidery design – Use designs that aren't too dense. The designs used in this project are from Winter Wonderland by Anita Goodesign

    Instructions: 1. Use a bobbin with the same color thread that you'll be using on top. 2. Hoop the backing stabilizer. 3. Stitch basting line to use for placement. 4. Place fleece and topper over placement line and sew basting stitch again. 5. The topper will prevent stitches from sinking into fleece. 6. Embroider the design. 7. Remove from hoop.

    8. Gently tear the excess topper off and cut away the water-soluble stabilizer being careful not to cut the fleece or any stitching. Dissolve all of the remaining stabilizer by soaking the scarf in water.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Candy Cane Holders

    December 4, 2012

    Differentiate your candy cane from the rest with its own special holder. Supplies: Dakota Design CD - Appliquè Candy Cane Holders (20 designs included with detailed instructions) Water soluble stabilizer Fabric for the appliquès - Maximum size needed for the front and back of each holder will be 2 pieces 4” x 3 1/2” Tape, such as blue painter's tape Fray Check Candy Cane Instructions:

    1. Hoop water soluble stabilizer.

    2. Sew the tack down stitch to hold the appliquè fabric in place. Trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 3. Embroider the design through the last outline step. 4. On the back of the stabilizer, tape a piece of appliquè fabric that extends at least ¼ inch past the  the outline stitches. 5. Stitch the tack down color change to hold the appliquè fabric in place. 6. Remove tape and trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 7. Change bobbin thread to match top thread. 8. Embroider the rest of the design. 9. Stabilize the buttonholes with Fray Check, let dry. 10. Remove from hoop and cut excess water soluble stabilizer away from design. 11. Cut buttonholes open.

    12. Using a damp sponge, remove excess water-soluble stabilizer. 13. Add candy cane.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog

    Candy Cane Holders

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/finished-project-475x356.gif

    Differentiate your candy cane from the rest with its own special holder. Supplies: Dakota Design CD - Appliqué Candy Cane Holders (20 designs included with detailed instructions) Water soluble stabilizer Fabric for the appliquès - Maximum size needed for the front and back of each holder will be 2 pieces 4” x 3 1/2” Tape, such as blue painter’s tape Fray Check Candy Cane Instructions:

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/hoop-stabilizer-300x225.gif 1. Hoop water soluble stabilizer.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/cut-away-top-fabric-300x225.gif 2. Sew the tack down stitch to hold the appliquè fabric in place. Trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 3. Embroider the design through the last outline step.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/add-fabric-to-back-300x225.gif 4. On the back of the stabilizer, tape a piece of appliqué fabric that extends at least ¼ inch past the outline stitches.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/back-side-300x225.gif 5. Stitch the tack down color change to hold the appliqué fabric in place.http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/trim-excess-fabric-on-back-300x225.gif 6. Remove tape and trim the fabric close to the outside of the tack down stitches. 7. Change bobbin thread to match top thread.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/final-stitching-300x225.gif 8. Embroider the rest of the design.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/fray-check-300x225.gif 9. Stabilize the buttonholes with Fray Check, let dry.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/cut-away-stabilizer-300x225.gif 10. Remove from hoop and cut excess water soluble stabilizer away from design.http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/cut-buttonholes-300x225.gif 11. Cut buttonholes open.

    http://www.moores-sew.com/blog_files/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/clean-edges-300x225.gif 12. Using a damp sponge, remove excess water-soluble stabilizer. 13. Add candy cane.

  • Christmas Tree Shaped Napkin

    November 27, 2012

    Decorate your holiday table with appropriately shaped napkins. Most people will recognize the shape, but depending on your fabric selections, some may wonder “what were you thinking when you picked those fabrics?”

    Materials: – ½ yard of 2 different fabrics - will make 2 napkins – template stock – poster board, cardboard, or heavy paper

    Instructions: 1. Create a circular template by cutting a 17” diameter circle from the template material. 2. Place right-sides of the two fabrics together and pin. 3. Trace around the circle template with a fine-line fabric marker. Be sure to leave at least an inch between the two circles. You don't have to make continuous lines. Dashed lines are fine. You will be able to make 2 circles on a ½ yard sandwich of 45 inch wide fabric. The black 'worms' are weights that hold the pattern down on the fabric stack. You don't need to have pattern weight 'worms', but they are useful if you have some. 4. Do NOT cut on the line you just drew. Separate the circle sandwiches by cutting between them.

    5. Sew on the traced outline around each circle. Leave a 2” opening for turning. 6. Trim the seam allowance 1/8” to 1/4” of stitching. Pinking shears work great for this. 7. Turn right-side out and press. 8. Edge stitch around the napkin, this will close the opening. 9. Fold the napkin roughly in half with a little of the contrasting fabric showing at the open end.

    10. Locate a point on the straight fold that is 5 inches in from the circular edge. Measure along the curve about 3-1/4 inches and fold so the contrasting fabric stripe shows.

    Make a reverse fold, aligning the new fold to the 'loose' edge.

    Continue the alternating folds to make 5 pie-shaped wedges. Adjust the folds if needed to form the the tree shape.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Glass SLIPPERS - not GLASS Slippers like you might wear or have worn

    November 20, 2012

    Glass SLIPPERS – not GLASS Slippers like you might wear or have worn

    Having a party? Do you prefer that your guests wouldn't put their wineglasses on your tables without a coaster? If you answered yes, then this fast project is for you.

    Requirements:

    - Batting: one 4 inch square of cotton/poly blend - Fabric: five 4 inch squares, 3 of one print, 2 of a second print - Note: If your wineglasses have large bases, you will want to use larger squares.

    Instructions:

    1. Fold two squares of each print in half, wrong-sides together. Press. 2. Place the remaining fabric square right-side up on the batting square, and align the raw edges.

    3. As the fabric pieces in the photos are difficult to identify, the graphic above shows the sequential placement of the folded fabric triangles. For the sample with two triangles of each fabric, the odd numbered pieces are from one fabric and the even numbered pieces are from the other fabric. Lay the first three pieces down in order, rotating the pieces as illustrated. Slide the fourth piece under the exposed half of piece number one as indicated by the arrow.

    4. Align all the raw edges and pin as needed. 5. Sew a ¼: seam allowance around the square. 6. Trim off the corners.

    7. Turn the slipper right side out.

    8. Slip in the base of your wineglass.

    Now that you know how fast and easy these are to make, why not make up some for your use and some more for gifts.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Embroidered Candle

    November 13, 2012

    A simple process enables you to coordinate your candles to every season, holiday, or special event.

    Supplies: - candle - tulle or organza fabric that closely matches the color of your candle - kk2000 temporary spray adhesive - permanent multipurpose spray adhesive - Floriani water soluble stabilizer - embroidery design that fits on your candle. Choose a light to medium weight design without a lot of small detail. High stitch count designs don't work well on tulle or organza. If your design has running stitches you will get better results with organza than with tulle.

    Stitching the design: 1. Cut your tulle or organza and two pieces of stabilizer to fit your embroidery hoop. 2. To help prevent the fabric from slipping, spray the stabilizer with a small amount of kk2000 temporary adhesive. 3. Make a fabric sandwich - stabilizer, tulle or organza, stabilizer. 4. Hoop the three layers together. 5. Attach hoop to the machine and embroider the design. 6. When the design is finished, remove from the hoop and trim away excess stabilizer. Be careful to avoid cutting any of the design stitches. A close trimming is not necessary. Do not trim the tulle or organza. 7. Soak the design in warm water to remove the remainder of the stabilizer. 8. Let dry.

    9. Trim excess fabric around design. A dense design may be trimmed closely, whereas a loose design may need the supporting tulle or organza to stabilize parts of the design. 10. Spray the back of the design with permanent adhesive. 11. Align the design on the candle. To hold the design in place while the adhesive dries, wrap a strip of plastic wrap around the candle.

    If the design doesn't stick to your candle, you can use some small pins to hold it in place.

    Crystals can add a special touch. Applying crystals to the embroidery design before attaching the design to the candle is probably the best approach. If you check the pictures closely, you may notice that the crystals were added after the design was attached to the candle.  This second-thought application worked on the dense design, but probably would not work on a loose design.

    When the candle begins to burn down, peel the embroidery off and reapply to a new candle.

    click here for a printable version of this blog
  • Casserole Carrier

    November 6, 2012

    With the holidays approaching, it is time to make a handy item for yourself and maybe for others as a gift to facilitate transporting a contribution to a family or friend get together. This is a carrier you can make to simplify transporting your plate of cookies or pie or a hot dish. The specified size will hold a 9 inch pie plate or a 1 ½ to 2 quart casserole dish. You can adjust the size to fit your needs.

    Fabric: ½ yard of fabric ½ yard of medium weight fusible interfacing. Instead of using interfacing, you can use a cotton batting to help keep your dish warm.

    Cut: 2 – 17” squares from fabric 1 – 17” square from interfacing 1 – 5 ½: x 17” strip of fabric for handle 2 – 2 1/2” x 5 1/2” strips of fabric for loops

    Instructions:

    The body -

    1. Fuse interfacing to the wrong-side of one 17” square of fabric. 2. Place both 17” squares of fabric right-sides together and pin as needed. 3. Sew together with a 1/4” seam allowance leaving a 4 inch opening along one edge for turning.

    4. You will get a sharper corner if, at each corner, you don't stitch right into the corner. Instead, stop sewing before getting right into the corner, turn the fabric 45 degrees and take two stitches to get to the ¼ “ seam line, then turn the fabric another 45 degrees to line up with the fabric edge and resume sewing parallel to the fabric edge. 5. Turn the big squares right-side out. Use a point turner to push the corners out. 6. Top stitch at 1/8” from the edge. This will close the opening and make your fabric lay nicer. Handles and loops -

    1. Press a 1/4” hem along all four sides of the 2 ½” x 5 1/2” strips of fabric. 2. Fold in half lengthwise and press. 3. Repeat on the 5 1/2” x 17” strip of fabric. 4. Top stitch at 1/8” from folded edges on all three strips. 5. Sew a short strip onto a corner so it forms a loop as shown in picture above. 6. Sew the other short strip to opposite corner. 7. Sew the long strip to the other two corners. 8. Place a pie plate or casserole in the center of the fabric square and slip the two short loops over the long handle strap to close the square around the dish.

    click here for a printable version of this blog
  • Mitered Corner Placemat

    October 30, 2012

    Fall, that time of the year when we start spending more time in our sewing studios working on projects for the holidays. This week our project is how to do a form of mitered corner binding.

    Supplies: - A 12” x 18” placemat center - The one shown was made by using the stitch and flip technique we did in the December 13, 2011 blog for the mug rug. - Backing fabric 16” x 22”, or 4” wider and longer than a center size of your choosing.

    Instructions: 1. Create the center for the placemat. This could be just a beautiful piece of fabric. Set aside. 2. Cut backing fabric 4” wider and longer than the center. 3. With the backing fabric wrong-side up, fold and press a side hem 1". 4. Fold and press the next side 1". The second hem will overlap the first hem at the corner. Repeat this process on remaining sides so every side has been folded once. 5. Fold and press each of the side hems again, 1”. The hems will overlap at each corner. 6. Unfold all the hems to reveal the pressed lines. I added the pencil lines to make it easier to see the folds. 7. Starting at any fabric corner, fold the fabric right-sides together to create a 45 degree point.

    8. Place one edge of a wide ruler along the fold and the ruler corner at the point where the inner-most pressed folds touch the just created fold. Use a fabric marking pen to mark a stitching line from the intersection of the pressed folds along your 45 degree fold line to the pressed fold line closest to fabric edge.

    9. The point where the pressed lines intersect is where you will begin to sew the corner hem. 10. Stitch along the marked line, back tacking at each end. 11. Trim the point of the triangle off, leaving a 1/4” of fabric past the stitch line. 12. Press the seam open. Repeat for all corners. 13. Using the previously pressed guidelines, fold the hems back into place. Push out all the corner points with a point turner. 14. Pin the folded edges, if necessary. 15. Press.

    16. Insert the placemat center on the backing, tucking raw edges under the folded hems. 17. Using a straight stitch, sew along the inside folds to secure the inside to the binding. 18. This is a finished top corner with edge stitching. 19. Finished backside of placemat.click here for a printable version of this blog

  • Let's Add Some B-L-I-N-G!

    October 24, 2012

    More than 15 years ago, I started putting beads and crystals on my art quilts. I sewed them on by hand, and the process took many hours, but the time spent was well worth it. Then about 10 years ago, along came heat-set crystals and a special wand (that looked very much like an old soldering iron my husband had around for at least 30 YEARS!). I could put heat activated crystals on my quilts with no sewing needed. I was happy, or at least I thought I was happy, putting my crystals on one by one.

    Last March at Sew Expo in Pullayup, Washington, I saw a wonderful demo. They showed me how I could bring an embroidery design into a computer program and create my own crystal design. They REALLY had my attention with that capability. When I returned home, I couldn't stop thinking about all the things I could do with that computer program and a new hardware gadget not yet in my tools arsenal.

    The next month, George Moore demonstrated the same software and hardware at a Sew Fun Club meeting, and a set was going home with me even if I had to wrestle him for the demo set. The package included Artistic Crystal V6 software, a Silhouette Cameo cutter, and a crystal starter kit with enough materials to make a few designs.

    I have had a machine embroidery design by Janet Samson that I have wanted to do for a long time, but I wasn't looking forward to putting the thousands of crystals on one-by-one. I brought the design into  my new software and placed the crystals where I wanted them on each block. I also created a border design from some artwork. The crystal placement designs were then sent to the cutter to create vinyl templates for the crystals. It was not very long before the blocks were sewn out and assembled (I've been doing this type of work for years), and I was wading into the new experience of crystal embellishment with computer enhanced efficiencies I had never experienced.

    The sewn wall hanging without embellishment or piped binding is shown below – a little too small to see the many details. So, I will take you on a closer-up look at the various steps and stages of the simplified and less-laborious journey to completion of the project. This is not a full tutorial on how to do such a project from start to finish – that would be way too involved. This is an overview (of the process) that I hope will provide some details that might help you find a solution to a problem or impediment that may be limiting your creativity. Probably, you will see more than one technique or new idea that you did not know is available to you if you have the right equipment.

    I stitched out the blocks for my wall hanging and sewed them together. I found it easier to put the crystals on after the quilt was done.

    For each of the blocks, I only had to create a template for one corner as all the corners of a particular block are the same. No two blocks, however, are alike.

    Let's look at how the crystal template is used to do a single block corner of crystals so you understand where the efficiency of this process comes from versus individually putting on a single crystal at a time.

    Fill all holes in the vinyl template with a crystal. This is done by brushing crystals onto the template and carefully removing crystals not in a hole.

    Use the clear transfer tape to lift all the crystals out of the template.

    Place the transfer tape with the crystals onto the fabric taking care that the crystals mate well with the stitching design. The tape is sticky, the crystals are not sticky until heated.

    Cover the transfer tape with a press cloth to protect your iron. Apply heat and some pressure for 8-10 seconds. How much heat and pressure is determined by the crystal size – practice first, then work on your real project.

    Remove the press cloth and let fabric and crystals cool. Remove the transfer tape from the fabric and crystals – the crystals stay with the design if properly heated.

    This process was repeated 4 times for each block.

    The process for the border is the same. Only one border design template is needed for this project. The border design template is used twelve times - with loose crystals (about 120) added to the holes for each occurrence of the design.

    I did not bother to count or calculate how many crystals were added to the wall hanging... there are many (approximately 2400), and they look good, and my project if finished.

    Based on past experience, I figure I saved more than 10 hours of work and plenty of hours of recovery from sore muscles associated with manual installation of many individual crystals. Even better than saving time is how perfect each corner and border design came out.

    We have only scratched the surface regarding the capabilities of the crystal software and cutter hardware.  These items have potential application in numerous other types of craft projects – not limited just to fabric and sewing... and we will leave it there... to be discovered sometime in the future.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Stretch Your Skills, Not Your Fabric

    October 16, 2012

    Mug Rug To Table Runner

    Anita Goodesign's new Modern Free Motion Design Collection has many beautiful embroidery designs, and I wondered how putting three squares of two different tropical designs together would look. Placing the squares side by side created a visual relationship that deserved to be made permanent. Add some borders and the result is large enough to be a small table runner.

    An interesting feature of the designs in the collection is that there are some designs that link as if sewed continuously in a line and others that link on all 4 sides when arranged in a horizontal/vertical grid of blocks.

    A few weeks ago I showed you how to use one machine quilted block to make a mug rug. Let's expand (pun intended) on that theme.

    Supplies: Anita Goodesign Modern Free Motion Design Collection CD See the tutorial that comes with the design collection for fabric requirements for the blocks Border fabric(s) - amount will vary depending on the finished size you want your table runner Backing fabric - amount will vary depending on the finished size you want your table runner Binding fabric - amount will vary depending on the finished size you want your table runner

    Instructions: 1. Decide if you want to create a narrow runner with a single row of blocks or a wide runner with 2 or more rows of blocks. If you care about the idea of continuity of stitching from block to block, check for continuity at all joints between blocks. 2. I followed the instructions in the tutorial to stitch out my blocks. 3. Matching the placement lines carefully, sew three or more blocks together. 4. Trim the fabric around the outside edge of the assembled blocks 1/4” from block placement stitching lines. 5. Measure the narrow width of the blocks and cut two pieces of border fabric 2 1/2” (or desired border width) by the measured block width. 6. Sew end border strips to the blocks. Press. 7. Measure the length of blocks with border strips attached and cut two long border pieces 2 1/2” (or desired width) by the measured length. 8. Sew the long border strips to the blocks and press. 9. Repeat steps 3 to 8 for each additional border. 10. Cut batting and backing fabric at least 2” longer and wider than the current size of the table runner.

    11. Using temporary spray adhesive, attach the batting to the backing and the table runner to the batting.

    12. Using a 'stitch in the ditch' foot will help you keep the stitches in the seam as you sew the three layers together. 13. Stitch ALL seams (block to block, block to border, and border to border). 14. Trim excess batting and backing to the outer edge of the outside border. 15. Apply binding using your favorite technique.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog
  • Simple Techniques for Sewing a Sequence of Sequins

    October 9, 2012

    With the upcoming costume season, AKA Halloween, some of you might be interested in a simple technique to sew sequins onto some of your projects.

    Sewing machine I used: Brother Quattro Stitch number: 2-07 Stitch width: 7.0 mm Stitch length: 2.5 m

    The photo above shows the back side of the fabric. The bulge is caused by the sequins on the right-side of the fabric. This is the bobbin thread, but the top thread looks the same (except for color). If your machine does not have this type of stitch, use a wide zig-zag stitch.

    Presser foot:

    The foot on the left is a standard presser foot, upside down. I prefer to use the 'Pearl and Piping' foot on the right. However, any foot  that has a tunnel on the bottom (like the foot on the right above) will allow the sequins to go under the foot smoothly. Check your owner's manual as most machines have a foot that is recommended for use with a satin stitch and has some form of a tunnel on the bottom side.

    Thread:

    Thread your machine with invisible thread on top. Use thread that matches your fabric on the bobbin. Invisible thread is available in clear and smoke colors. When working with dark colored sequins use the smoke, and for light colors use the clear.

    Instructions:

    Place a string of sequins so they are laying in the direction you are sewing as shown by the top string in the photo. Think of a cats' tail (or dog if you prefer), you want to pet it in the direction that the fur grows. As the sequins and fabric move from the front to the back of the presser foot, the sequins will compress easily, rather than catch on the bottom of the foot. If your sequin design has curves, particularly sharp curves, reduce your stitch speed so that you can turn the fabric to keep the sequin line centered at the needle.  If you turn too sharply the sequins will catch on the edge of the channel at the back of the presser foot.

    Stitch a sample using the type of fabric, the sequins, and typical curves, if any, you will be using in your project. Make any necessary adjustments to the stitch width and stitch length to get the look you want.  The photo above has yellow thread to show a typical top stitch – the stitch width and length will hold the sequins down, but the thread color is probably not the effect you want to achieve.

    The Anita Goodesign Haunted House Tile Scene wall-hanging at the top of this article was made by Dianna Frohn. The black 'tile grout lines' are lines of black sequins. They cover the seam lines between the individual fabric panels. Thanks, Dianna, for the great sample that inspired this blog's topic.

    Click Here for a Printable Version of this Blog

Items 91 to 100 of 147 total

Page:
  1. 1
  2. ...
  3. 8
  4. 9
  5. 10
  6. 11
  7. 12
  8. ...
  9. 15