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  • Project: Easy Casserole/Treat Carrier

    August 7, 2015


    CC 3 CC 4 CC 1

    This versatile carrier is easy to make, fun to use to take your favorite foods to share, and keeps things warm or cool!  Versatile for many different size pans, but you can easily change up the measurements to custom fit other sizes.  A great gift, both the carrier and whatever good things you put inside of it!  We made ours using a Baby Lock serger with a Wave stitch for added detail.  Not sure what the Wave stitch is?  We'll show you in the pictures but would love it if you come on in to take a look for yourself!

    Supplies:  (Items with * can be purchased direct from Moore's online blog store, just click the link below product photos throughout post!)

    CC 18

    Fabric: (for contrast Outer and Inner sections)                                           Outer fabric and tabs - 1-3/8 yd. 45" wide, woven fabric                         Inner fabric - 3/4 yd. 45" wide woven fabric                                                 One 1 yd. Package of Insul-Bright*                                                              Spray Adhesive - KK2000* or 505*                                                               Floriani Embroidery Perfection Tape*                                                          Cutting Mat*                                                                                                            Ruler/Grid*                                                                                                               Rotary Cutter*                                                                                                   Fray Block* (Note, this is not the same product as Fray Check)                 Set of purse handles (instructions are for handles approx. 6" at bottom - if you select different length, adjust length of tab fabric accordingly)         Velcro  (1/4 yd.,  you may want more - see options in instructions       Regular sewing thread (available in Moore's stores)                       Decorative thread for serger -- Mettler Quilting Thread, YLI Jeans Stitch, YLI Pearl Crown etc., for both upper and lower loopers, and one cone of regular serger thread (available in Moore's stores)                                           Serger and Sewing Machine (available in Moore's stores)


    1.            Cut the following:               

                    Outer fabric:  2 pieces each 40" long x 19-1/2" wide

                    Inner fabric:   2 pieces each 42" long x 12-1/2" wide

                    Tabs for handles:  2 pieces 12-1/2"long x 3-3/4" wide

                    Insul-Bright: 1 piece 41-3/4" long x 12-1/4" wide

    A rotary cutter, cutting mat, and ruler are invaluable in cutting nice straight pieces.  You'll find many uses for these tools!  We used a large (24"x36") mat and large (6-1/2"x24-1/2") ruler with 45mm rotary cutter.


    Creative Grid 6.5 x 24.5 

            Buy ruler!  

    Olfa Mat 24 x 36

         Buy Cutting Mat!



                Buy Rotary Cutter!

    NOTE:   Insul-Bright has a "reflective" side that goes against the item to be kept warm or cool. It is the slightly shinier side of the product.  We recommend sticking a label on that side so you always know which it is! We've used Floriani Embroidery Perfection Tape (which we'll often refer to as "pink tape") to mark ours.

     Insul BrightCC 17

    Get Insul-Bright!

    Floriani Embroidery Perfection Tape 1

    Buy Tape Now!

      2.            Place Insul-Bright between the two pieces of inner fabric - use spray adhesive to hold in place - we recommend  505 or KK2000 to baste the layers together.   


    505 Spray Large 

                            Get 505!                     

    Sulky KK2000

                                       Get KK2000!                            

    Right side of each piece of fabric should face out.   Your Insul-Bright was cut just a bit smaller than these fabric pieces to prevent its "fuzziness" from poking through your serged edges, so it should be approximately 1/8" smaller than each side of the outer fabric.   It's VERY IMPORTANT to mark the fabric as to which is covering the reflective side of the Insul-Bright -- we've moved our pink tape label into position for this purpose.  You will need to know which side this is when you join it to the outer section to be sure your food is kept warm/cool.

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     3.            Thread your serger according to manufacturer's instructions .  We have used the Wave stitch -- this great decorative stitch is found on Baby Lock Ovation, Evolution or Enlighten sergers (if you don't have one of these, come on into your local Moore's store - we can help!).  You can use a regular 3 thread wide serging/overlock stitch.  Use the serger cone thread for the needle, and decorative thread in upper and lower loopers.  We shortened the stitch length to just "a click" above 1.0.   We recommend layering some scraps as above as test pieces to adjust your stitch the way you want it.  

     CC 11

    Serge all four sides of the inner section together.  Isn't that Wave pretty?!  We serged off the edge on each side, then used Fray Block to secure the stitches.  It dries soft and clear!  We put wax paper under our work to protect surfaces from spills.  KEEP that "Reflective Side" marker in place!

     Fray Block

    Add to my cart!

     4.            Attach the Velcro closure strips - this is how your inner section closes and keeps your food warm/cool.  Place one 9" strip approximately 1" in from edge of the Reflective Side of your inner section.  Place the other piece of the Velcro approximately 1" in from OPPOSITE END of the OPPOSITE SIDE of inner section -- this allows the pieces to fold over and fasten shut.  We've used pink tape to baste the Velcro. 

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    Hint:  Even if you purchased self stick Velcro, we recommend sewing it down to avoid lifting.                                                                                                                                          Hint:  We used an edge joining foot - also called a narrow edge foot or stitch in the ditch foot - to easily sew it on.  Abut the center guide to edge of Velcro, move needle over a few clicks, sew

    !Narrow edge/stitch in the ditch/edge joining foot

    Hint:   You may wish to apply additional strips to adjust for wrapping different size pans.

    Your inner section is done!

    5.            Tabs - Fold each tab lengthwise, right sides together.   Sew with 1/4" seam, press.  Turn right side out so finished seam is on outside.  Position this seam in center of tab, press.  Press one raw edge up 1/2".

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    6.            If you'd like to add some embroidery, applique, or other embellishment to the outside, add these embellishments now.   Place outer fabric pieces WRONG sides together and baste with spray adhesive.  

                    Note -- we used a quilting cotton so our carrier is very soft.  A more firm fabric will give your carrier a more "crisp" result.  You may wish to add add interfacing or a stabilizing material between your outer pieces - it's all personal preference!    

    7.            Center one tab at each short end of the outer fabric set, seam side up, and pin or baste in place (do NOT serge over pins!).  This is the piece that will be the outermost part of carrier and is the "public" side - so if you preferred one side of your fabric, your tabs should be attached to that side, and you will serge with that side up!

    8.            Serge  all four sides, as in step #3.  Your tab end will look like this --

     CC 14

     9.            Press each tab up away from outer fabric, but leave serger stitching flat beneath it.  Press raw edges of tab under 1/2".

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     10.          Turn outer section over.  One at a time, lay handle as near edge of stitching as possible (see photo - it will be easier with a straighter handle!).  Fold tab over handle so the raw edge you pressed under is now concealed.  We used pink tape to hold in place.  Edge stitch along each tab edge to attach handles.

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     Your outer section is done!

     11.          Lay outer section flat so the tab edges you just sewed are facing up.   Place the inner section crosswise, centered, on top of the outer section as shown and pin or tape to secure.  REFLECTIVE SIDE SHOULD BE FACING UP.   Stitch inner section to outer section approximately 1" in from outer edge, as shown.  We've used pink tape to secure and mark stitching placement. 

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     (Yes, that is carpet you're seeing!  Even with this large cutting mat you can run out of room or table space.  That's why you NEED a cutting table!)

    Your carrier is done!   You're all ready to take your culinary creation to share!   Here's how to close the inner section for insulation (that's mom's vintage pan peaking out, it's still going strong creating delicious meals after decades!)

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    Now just pull the outside up with handles and you're good to go!

    Variation: If you'd like, you can add Velcro tabs at each end of the corners of your outer section.

    Variation:  For additional embellishment, some interesting buttons can be placed at corners to enhance and fasten your carrier.                                                                                                        

    Bon Appetit! 






  • Tip! Embroidery Thread Matching and Conversion

    July 31, 2015

    Did you know... there's a great Floriani app for your Apple device (Android is in the works!) to convert thread?  It features 16 different thread lines and gives you an array of choices to match from one to another!  A quick, easy way to find just the right thread!  It has shopping list, thread organizer, and more features as well! To match your Floriani threads with real thread samples (in case you don't have all colors on hand - we can help with that!), this Floriani Thread Chart is invaluable.  It features real thread samples for a true match -- polyesters, metallic, variegated.  It folds out to 6 pages, and is a color matching aid you'll want to keep with you to check out your threads in all kinds of lighting situations!

    Buy it now!

    Floriani Chart 1





  • Tip! Rotary Cutter Size Matters!

    July 29, 2015


    Cutting curves can be so much easier with a smaller rotary cutter!

    Whether curved quilt pieces, armholes, necklines, sleeves -- you can get a more precise cut with a smaller diameter blade.  The 28mm shown lets you get that precision and saves your bigger cutters for heavier fabrics or more layers.  It really is convenient to have a variety of sizes on hand!

    Buy Now!

  • Tip!

    June 30, 2015

    Lengthen your usual stitch length for garment sewing.   If there is stress on a seam and you've used a short stitch length your seam may stay sewn - but the stress will cause your fabric to pull and tear.  This typically can't be repaired without taking in the seam, causing more stress.  With a longer stitch length (we recommend starting with 3.0) you'll have a better chance of saving your fabric!  Store your favorite new stitch setting in your personal menu of your sewing machine so you can go right to it when you sew!  Not sure how to do that?  Come on in and let us show you how! 


  • Tip!

    June 30, 2015

    What do summer, swimming pools and pool noodles have to do with sewing?   Pool noodles are great for storing your quilt or other sewing-in-progress without wrinkles or folds!  Just roll your work onto the noodle and pin in place.  They're easily pinnable and don't take up much space!  Summer is here and they're readily available! 

    Pool Noodles 2

    Quilting Pins

     Add them to my cart!



  • Welcome!

    June 30, 2015

    Welcome to the Moore's Blog!

    Whether you're new or rejoining us after we were "on hiatus" we're glad to have you here!  We've been quiet for awhile but look forward to keeping in touch regularly now!

    We'll be bringing you projects each month we hope you'll enjoy, and tips throughout the month to help make your sewing experience a better one!

    If you haven't been in your local Moore's store in awhile we hope you'll stop in.  We'd love to see you and get reacquainted and show you what's new!  Speaking of what's new -- we are proud to add the Janome brand to our family of fine sewing/quilting/embroidery machines and sergers!  Did you know -- you can actually "sew wirelessly" with an iPad on a Janome?  Come on in and let us show you how (and how you can get a FREE iPad!).   The Three Stitches give you a preview here.

    Janome 15000 Janome 15000



  • Scan N Cut does Rhinestone Designs

    August 14, 2014

    title-imageI love the Scan N Cut machine, but... I did not like the process of getting the applique shapes from an embroidery design so I could cut them with my Scan N Cut, and I wanted to be able to add or convert parts of my embroidery design to rhinestones. The solution to the old shortcomings is Artistic SimpleCut software.

    The Artistic software has the ability to create shapes, motifs, and designs and save them in the file format that the Scan N Cut understands. You can cut fabric for applique, templates for crystal designs, and vinyl to adhere to shirts, glassware, walls, car windows or mirrors.

    If you already own Artistic Crystal Software v6, there is a free update on their website to Artistic SimpleCut v7 (formerly Artistic Crystal). The new update is compatible with the Brother Scan N Cut.

    The content of this blog is written with the assumption that you are already using your Artistic software to create comparable files for use with a Silhouette cutting machine. If you are not already using the software, or do not own the software, check the Moore's Website or contact your local Moore's store for class schedules.

    Creating .FCM file(s) for the Scan N Cut


    The screen shot above (from Artistic Crystal or Artistic Simple Cut) contains both fabric outlines  and crystal outlines.  To use your Scan N Cut to cut fabric pieces and a crystal template, you must create TWO categories of computer files in the .FCM format. One category is 'outlines' and the other is 'crystals'. The following steps summarize how to create a .FCM file for the Scan N Cut.

    1. Click on File. 2. Click on Export 3. Click on To Crystal/Cutters...

    Note: the image you see will be saved as an .FCM format file. If your design contains both Crystals and Artwork, you must repeat this process for each setting category applicable in the 'Settings' list. Separate .FCM format files will be created.

    4. Choose applicable setting category. 5. Click on the FCM image icon on left side. 2014-07-10_062317

    6. Type in a unique file name and select where you want to save the file. Eventually, you will need to copy/save the file on a USB memory stick to transfer the file to the Scan N Cut. 7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 if you are creating both cutting files and crystal files.

    Making a Rhinestone Template

    Material List: Rhinestone template vinyl Rhinestone transfer tape Scan N Cut regular mat Scan N Cut deep cut blade Backer board



    1. To open a .FCM file, select Pattern on the home screen.


    2. Select USB icon.


    3. Select the file you want from the available files displayed.


    4. Click on OK 5. Place a piece of rhinestone template vinyl on a regular mat. 100_7660

    6. Load the mat.


    7. Adjust the settings for YOUR rhinestone template vinyl. I used a new deep cut blade and the following settings: Blade 5, Pressure 1, Speed 3

    Always do a test cut (away from the area you will cut the design) to assure you have the correct settings for your machine.


    8. Scan the mat so you can accurately place your design on a portion of the rhinestone vinyl.


    9. If you want to move the shapes at this point, click on the top icon and it will open the next screen.


    9a. Click on the move icon.


    9b. By using these arrows you can easily move the design.


    10. With the shapes in an appropriate location, click on the Cut button and then the Start button.


    11. A view of the completed rhinestone cuts for the sample design.


    12. Remove the rhinestone vinyl AND its backing sheet from mat.


    13. Remove rhinestone vinyl from backing sheet. It is important to clear all the holes from the vinyl BEFORE sticking the vinyl to a backer board. The rhinestone dots should remain on the backing sheet. Remove any remaining dots by pushing them out with something about as big around as the dot.


    14. Place the rhinestone vinyl template on backer board and set aside until needed.

    Cutting Embroidery Design Applique shape from Fabric

    Use a .FCM file for fabric shape(s) that you have already created. Follow steps 1 through 4 in the previous section to load the file into the Scan N Cut.

    Material List: Regular Scan N Cut blade Regular Scan N Cut mat Fabric with Floriani Appli-Kay Wonder fused to the backside.

    When exporting an applique design that has more than one piece, the program creates several files in a single operation. You will find a file for each piece and a file that contains all of them. This palm tree design created three files. I selected the file that had both the top and the bottom (all the fabric pieces).


    1. Open the .FCM file in the Scan N Cut.


    2. Place fabric on the regular mat


    3. Scan the mat with fabric and move the shapes onto the appropriate fabric piece that you want them to cut.


    4. Use the Scan N Cut recommended settings to cut the fabric. If you don't get good results when you make the test cut, you should adjust your settings according to the blade condition and the actual material you are cutting.


    5. After a placement line has been sewn, place the appropriate piece of fabric on the line. You can skip any tack down stitch and proceed to sew the design. The Floriani Appli-Kay Wonder is tacky and will hold the fabric in place while the machine does the final stitching.


    6. Remove the project from the hoop and add rhinestones.

    Adding Rhinestones


    1. Brush rhinestones into template. You may have a separate template for each size and/or color of rhinestones in the design.


    2. Pick up rhinestones with transfer tape.


    3. Place the rhinestone design where you want it on the fabric. Heat set the stones using the recommended time and temperature for the size and type of stones you selected.

    Armed with this knowledge, go create some bling!!!!........


    Pdf image
  • Using a Brother Scan N Cut to Cut Fabric for Hand Applique

    January 7, 2014

    I like doing hand applique, but I do not enjoy tracing and cutting out the fabric pieces. With a Scan N Cut you can skip the tracing and let the machine do the cutting for you. I'm going to show you how to add a seam allowance to your applique shapes for handwork and to make the Scan N Cut do the cutting for you.

    Supplies: Quilt fabric Heavy spray starch Scan N Cut machine Low tack mat Regular tack mat with the extra-sticky mat on it Applique shapes printed at full size on paper


    100_7522 1. Set desired seam allowance by pressing the wrench button.100_7523 2. On page 3 selected your desired seam allowance and click the OK button.100_7536 3. Place paper pattern on the low tack mat.100_7533 4. Load low tack mat with attached paper pattern by pressing the load mat button.100_7534 5. Press Scan icon.

    100_7535 6. Press Scan to Cut Data icon. Press Start/Stop button to scan. Wait for the scan to be processed. 7. Unload mat by pressing the same button you pressed to load the mat.100_7541 8. Crop the image, if necessary, and press SAVE button.100_7542 9. You will be offered options to save the scanned image to a USB stick or the Scan N Cut internal memory.

    100_7547 10. You wind up back at the cropping/save screen which is a little confusing. Use the return button 'U turn' arrow in upper right corner to proceed. Click on OK to delete scanned data.

    100_7549 11. Use the return button in the next screen to get to the Pattern or Scan screen.100_7551 12.  Press the Pattern button,

    100_7552 13. Press the Saved Data button.100_7553 14. Now it is time to retrieve a previously saved image. Press the button that corresponds to where the image was saved. You may need to page down to find the image with the pieces you want to cut.100_7554 15. Select the image and press OK.100_7525 16. To put a seam allowance around one or more pieces in an image, select top left icon.

    100_7526 17. Select a shape you want to add seam allowance to . A red box will appear around the selected shape. Press the button at the right end of the  middle row.100_7527 18. The button on bottom left will add the seam allowance to the selected piece.100_7528 19. Seam allowance has been added.100_7530 20. Repeat with each shape. When all the shapes that you need have a seam allowance, press OK.

    100_7500 21. Starch the fabric with heavy spray starch. This will give the fabric more body and produce better cutting results. Place fabric on extra sticky mat. Load the mat with the fabric. Note in the photo above that there are several pieces of fabric on the mat. The pieces I need for this small project will be arranged below to be cut from the proper color in a single cutting session rather than a separate cutting session for each color.

    100_7531 22. Press the scan button located near the bottom left corner of screen. 23. You will be able to see the scan of your fabric, allowing you to move each piece to where you want to cut out your applique shape. Click on the OK button100_7515 24. If you want the original shape to be drawn on the fabric use either the water soluble or air erasable fabric pen in the white pen holder. 25. If you want to draw, press the DRAW key.100_7514 26. If necessary, replace the white pen holder with the blue blade holder and set it according to instructions in the manual.100_7540 27. Press the CUT button.

    100_7502 28. Remove fabric from mat. For this design, it is easier to remove the large fabric pieces first, leaving the shapes that are part of the finished project rather than trying to pick the shapes out leaving the surrounding fabric.

    Pdf image


  • Adding A Pocket To Your Bike T-Shirt

    October 8, 2013

    100_6816 If you ride a bike you may have seen the shirts some serious bike riders wear with one or more pockets on the back. My bike-riding partner was going to buy one of these shirts so she would not have to wear a backpack to carry a few personal items (I happen to know she carries snacks). I looked at a few of these shirts and decided that adding a pocket to a t-shirt would be easy. After all, it is just the front half of a zipper bag that is edge-stitched to the back of a shirt.

    Supplies: Shirt to which you want to add the pocket Scrap of fabric big enough to hold what you want to put in the pocket Nylon zipper

    Instructions: The measurements I am using are for a finished size of approximately 6” x 10”. Remember, this is your pocket and you can make it any size you want. 1. Cut lower-front pocket fabric 6” x 11”. 2. Cut upper-front pocket fabric 1 1/2” x 11”. 3. Cut two pieces of fabric 1 1/2” x 3” 4. 12” nylon zipper.

    100_6761 5. Place 1 1/2” x 3” fabric and one end of the zipper right-sides together with the zipper stop at the center of the fabric rectangle. Sew across the long part of the zipper 1/4” from the zipper stop. This will prevent the zipper pull from coming off when you cut off the zipper stop. Repeat on the other end of the zipper.100_6764 6. Trim off one end of the zipper, removing the metal stop.100_6762 7. Turn zipper right-side up.

    100_6763 8. Fold fabric wrong-sides together at the stitch line.100_6779 9. Trim fabric 1” from fold line.

    100_6783 10. Trim fabric even with edges of zipper tape. 11. Repeat Steps 6 to 10 on other end of zipper.100_6785 12. Layout the three sections of your pocket in the order you are going to assemble them.

    100_6787 13.  Place zipper right-side down on the right-side of the lower fabric section. Put a zipper foot on your machine.

    100_6788 14. Carefully sew the pieces together. To avoid hitting the zipper pull, move it out of the way when the zipper foot gets close to the pull. To do this, place the needle in the down position and raise the presser foot. Carefully move the zipper pull tab to the backside of the foot. Make sure the  fabric is lined up straight with the zipper foot again and lower foot to continue sewing to the end.100_6792

    15. Place zipper right-side down on the right-side of the upper fabric section. Repeat Step 14 with the top fabric section. 16. Press fabric away from zipper teeth.100_6802 17. Top-stitch from the right-side along both sides of the zipper.100_6804 18. Press the edges under 1/2” on all four sides.100_6805 19. Set the pocket front aside.

    100_6795 20. Prepare t-shirt by folding in half to find center back.100_6797 21. Mark where you want the bottom of your pocket. I noticed that the lower edges of bike shirt pockets tend to be located just about waist level.100_6798 22. Using a fabric pen, mark where the lower edge of the pocket should be.100_6799 23. Mark the center line of the t-shirt.100_6806 24. Match the center line of the pocket with the center line of the t-shirt and the bottom edge of the pocket with the bottom edge line.100_6808 25. Pin the pocket in place and edge-stitch around all four sides. Your pocket is complete.

    Comment on my original design: For the first pocket I made, I did not put fabric strips on the ends of the zipper (see photo below). I prefer the way the pocket looks with fabric at the ends of the zipper tape. If you prefer the look in the photo below, you can omit the zipper end fabric pieces.



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  • An Alternative Way To Create A Collar

    September 30, 2013

    I never cut collar pieces from the fashion fabric using the collar pattern. Instead, I cut an accurate duplicate of the collar pattern out of interfacing and fuse it onto a piece of fashion fabric. I believe this produces better results with the finished collar in less time – at least for me.


    1. Place a crisp, non-woven piece of fusible interfacing, such as Pellon, at least twice as long as the collar pattern, right-side up over the collar pattern. On one half of the interfacing, mark the center back and one half of the collar. Mark the seam lines for the outside edges of the collar. On the neck edge and other edges that join another pattern piece, mark the cut lines.

    100_6738 2. Fold the interfacing in half wrong-sides together and pin down the center of the interfacing pattern piece.

    100_6739 3. Cut out the interfacing pattern piece carefully. Note: if the collar design has a very sharp point, trim 1/16” from the point to round it slightly. If not trimmed, the fashion fabric may create a lump at the collar point.100_6741 4. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong-side of a rectangle of fashion fabric.100_6742 5. Place a second layer of fashion fabric right-sides together with the first layer. Along a line (drawn or eyeballed) centered and parallel to the long edges, pin through all the layers.

    100_6746 6. For this step, stretch the long edges as you stitch, and use tiny stitches around the point, pivoting to follow the edge of the interfacing. Sew the collar layers together from the center of the back, around one of the collar points to the neckline seam.100_6745 7. Repeat Step 6 for the other half of collar.100_6747 8. Tilt the scissors toward the layer that will be the underside of the collar to grade the seam allowance and trim the outer edge seam to 1/8”. Trim the seam at the corners to 1/16”.

    100_6750 9. Press the seam open over a point presser. 10. Turn the collar right-side out.100_6751 11. Press the collar carefully to roll the seams to the underside while pulling the underside collar fabric diagonally from the point towards the neck edge to help the seams roll to the underside.

    100_6754 12. To finish the collar, top-stitch close to edge or 1/4” away for the appearance that you prefer.

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