Choose washable fabrics. Depending on your fabric choices, this place mat can work for any occasion. I used denim. I like the idea of a pocket in which to put a napkin and flatware, but you can leave it off if you prefer.
Finished size: 21” width by 14” height
2 – pieces of fabric 22” x 15” (mat)
1 – piece of fabric 6” x 12” (pocket)
1 – ¼” strip of fusible web for opening (optional)
If you are going to add any machine embroidery designs you will also need:
- stabilizer, appropriate for your fabric and embroidery design
- kk2000 temporary spray adhesive
- Air-erase pen or dressmakers chalk
Cut top and backing fabric to 22” x 15”
Cut pocket fabric to 6” x 12”
If you are not going to sew any embroidery designs then go to the instructions for construction.
1. Mark the top-side mat fabric where you want the design to be sewn. I marked a line 5 ½” from the right edge (where the pocket is going to be) and marked the center of the remaining 16 ½” x 15” area.
2. Fold the pocket fabric in half to create a 6” x 6” square. Mark the center of the square. Unfold before hooping.
Embroidery sew out:
1. Choose a hoop that is large enough for the design.
2. Cut stabilizer large enough to be hooped.
If your fabric choice is lightweight, you may choose to hoop both the fabric and the stabilizer. If the fabric is heavyweight, you may prefer to hoop only the stabilizer. (I had to spray ‘Best Press” to get the hoop marks out of the denim fabric after hooping both it and the stabilizer…. what was I thinking?…. I don’t hoop heavyweight fabric…..)
I have found, in both cases above, that sticking the fabric to the stabilizer with a suitable spray or glue generally produces improved sew outs. For the heavyweight fabrics, I use my machines’ basting stitch to help hold the fabric in place.
My least favorite part of embroidery is hooping the fabric. I never seem to get it lined up with the hoop centering cross-hairs. But, I use the camera and ‘snowman’ feature my machine has to automatically rotate and locate the center of my design so the design sew out is exactly where I want it. In the photo above, the screen indicates that the design will be rotated one degree to line up with the snowman marker.
4. Attach the hoop to machine. Orient the design properly for each sew out. The pocket zone is to the lower right of the mat sew out. The pocket top is the fold. Stitch out design.
5. When the sewing is complete for each design, remove the hoop from the machine. Trim away excess stabilizer on the backside of the embroidery.
1. With the pocket folded to a square, the back side facing up, and the lower raw edges lined up with the lower raw edge of the right-side up front mat fabric, align the raw pocket edge on the right with the line you drew on the front fabric (5 ½” from the right edge).
2. ONLY along the right raw edge, stitch the pocket to the placemat using a ½” seam allowance.
3. Flip the pocket over and press. Now, the raw edges to the right and the bottom raw edges of the pocket should line up with the placemat raw edges.
4. Baste the pocket to the placemat along the remaining raw edges.
5. Lay the backing fabric on top of the placemat fabric, right-sides together and pin in place.
8. To hold the edges together at the opening, you can pin them or you can use a ¼” by length-of-the-opening strip of fusible web .
9. Top stitch a ¼” along the entire outer edge of the placemat. Because my fabric is denim and it ravels, I did another line of top stitching as close to the edge as I could. I also added some top stitching to the pocket.
To really make this a special placemat/napkin combo, how about adding a name or initials to the napkin?
Confused about that plate? It is NOT part of the placemat. The clear glass plate fell out of the sky in just the right place, centered on top of the mat embroidery design…… OK, I put it there…..